Domaine Lerys
A serene daytrip back in late September 2006, taking in the wine villages of western Fitou country, set the scene ruggedly for discovering three wineries, one big (Cave de Mont Tauch) and two (Bertrand-Bergé and this one, obviously) small... Maguy and Alain Izard farm 45 "low-yielding" hectares (110 acres) around the pretty lost village of Villeneuve; they also do chambres d'hôte with two rooms above their nice shop, one double and one family with a terrace.
2003 Fitou tradition (Carignan Grenache, 13.5%) - perfumed and pure, liquorice and pepper fruit with light rustic notes; firm tannins v ripeness, elegant bite and length. €6.20 87-89
2003 Fitou Prestige (Carignan Grenache Syrah) - more floral and herby followed by nice black fruit, firmer and more austere with lightly bitter bite; structured finish with coating of tannins. €7.30 88-90
2001 Fitou Fût de Chêne (Carignan Syrah) - coconut spice with nice fruit underneath, layered tannins with long bite; attractive but would be better with less oak. €7.70
Rivesaltes (Grenache blanc & gris) - appealingly oxidised walnut and toffee notes, quite subtle freshness v sweetness. €6.20 87+
Latest HERE - 2012 Fitou report featuring their 2008 vintage.
11360 Villeneuve-les-Corbières
21 Sept 2006
5 Sept 2006
Roussillon: Domaine Fontanel, Tautavel/Estagel
Laid-back Pierre and Marie-Claude Fontaneil (not a spelling mistake) have 25 ha (62 acres) around Tautavel, where their small yet soon-to-expand winery is found, and 10 ha (25 acres) in the village commune of Maury. I like those traditional village cellars found on a narrow residential street like any other, where you just walk in as if you were going into a large garage. The domaine was set up in 1989, before that the two families were cooperative growers. Their focus is red, mostly Roussillon AOC wines, producing around 10,000 cases in total per year, 80% of which is exported particularly to Asia and the Far East. In the UK, the wines are listed by Stone, Vine & Sun and Indigo Wine.
Tasted 5th Sept 2006:
2004 Côtes du Roussillon rouge (Grenache Syrah Carignan, 14%) - smoky black cherry with minty notes, elegant fruit despite fair concentration and weight, tight fresh finish v dry coating of tannins. 87
2003 Tradition Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Grenache Syrah Carignan, 13.5%) - firm and a bit closed up, subtle ripe fruit underneath; attractive tannin texture, needs 6-12 months to express itself as it's concentrated and structured. 89+
2004 Prieuré Côtes du Roussillon Villages Tautavel (Syrah Mourvèdre Grenache) - elegant perfumed nose and black cherry fruit, good grip and length. 89-91
1997 Rivesaltes Ambré (Grenache blanc & gris, 16.5%) - appealing mix of aged toffee notes and mature cheese complexity, finishing with fresh long bite. 88-90
2002 Maury (Grenache, 16%) - deliciously concentrated spicy blackberry and liquorice fruit, nice grip bite and power on the finish; not so sweet. 90-92
25 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 66720 Tautavel (cellar address, from April to October) or 37-39 Avenue du Docteur Torreilles, Estagel (shop open all year round 10am to 7pm). Tel: 04 68 29 04 71, 04 68 29 45 21; domainefontanel@hotmail.com, http://www.domainefontanel.com/.
2004 Côtes du Roussillon rouge (Grenache Syrah Carignan, 14%) - smoky black cherry with minty notes, elegant fruit despite fair concentration and weight, tight fresh finish v dry coating of tannins. 87
2003 Tradition Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Grenache Syrah Carignan, 13.5%) - firm and a bit closed up, subtle ripe fruit underneath; attractive tannin texture, needs 6-12 months to express itself as it's concentrated and structured. 89+
2004 Prieuré Côtes du Roussillon Villages Tautavel (Syrah Mourvèdre Grenache) - elegant perfumed nose and black cherry fruit, good grip and length. 89-91
1997 Rivesaltes Ambré (Grenache blanc & gris, 16.5%) - appealing mix of aged toffee notes and mature cheese complexity, finishing with fresh long bite. 88-90
2002 Maury (Grenache, 16%) - deliciously concentrated spicy blackberry and liquorice fruit, nice grip bite and power on the finish; not so sweet. 90-92
25 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 66720 Tautavel (cellar address, from April to October) or 37-39 Avenue du Docteur Torreilles, Estagel (shop open all year round 10am to 7pm). Tel: 04 68 29 04 71, 04 68 29 45 21; domainefontanel@hotmail.com, http://www.domainefontanel.com/.
2 Aug 2006
Mediterranean Jazz 3-6 August
Château l'Hospitalet, part of the energetic Gérard Bertrand empire located in the unfortunately named La Clape wine area near Narbonne, is hosting wine tasting jazz concerts over the next few days. Artists include Nicole Croisille on Thursday 3rd, on Friday 4th the Louis Martinez Quintet with Charlie & Sourisse, Sat 5th: Guy Marchand with 'Amor y Perfidia' and a homage to Frank Sinatra with the Big Brass Band on Sunday 6th August.
The 'Jazz in l'Hospitalet' shows start at 10pm (it'll be nice and cool by then) with tickets priced at 25 €uros (hopefully including some wine!). Ring (+33) 04 68 45 36 00 for more info and booking, or the town hall on 04 68 90 30 30 or check out their site www.gerard-bertrand.com. Château l'Hospitalet also has 22 rooms in its on-site Hôtel Mona Lisa plus two restaurants: l'Olivet and La Grange; phone + 33 (0)4 68 45 28 50 or fax : + 33 (0)4 68 45 28 78.
The 'Jazz in l'Hospitalet' shows start at 10pm (it'll be nice and cool by then) with tickets priced at 25 €uros (hopefully including some wine!). Ring (+33) 04 68 45 36 00 for more info and booking, or the town hall on 04 68 90 30 30 or check out their site www.gerard-bertrand.com. Château l'Hospitalet also has 22 rooms in its on-site Hôtel Mona Lisa plus two restaurants: l'Olivet and La Grange; phone + 33 (0)4 68 45 28 50 or fax : + 33 (0)4 68 45 28 78.
6 Jul 2006
Languedoc: Château de Sérame, Corbières/Minervois
Château de Sérame
"...Delving deeper into the Corbières, this huge region has been witnessing an impressive transformation with several very serious investors on the scene. Château de Sérame is an extensive property straddling both Corbières and Minervois, who went into partnership with Bordeaux magnate Dourthe four years ago. With 120 hectares in production and 10 being replanted every year, “our aim is benchmark wines” commented winemaker Vincent Bernard..." Read the rest of this article for more info (scroll down to OLN 2006).
Tasted July 2006:
2003 Minervois (Syrah Grenache Carignan Mourvèdre) - warm blackberry and liquorice fruit with light toasty oak, slightly 'reductive' tang and complexity; nice soft-ish texture v depth of fruit, weight (13.5%) and chocolate coating; quite big yet the fruit wins the day. 87-89
2004 Minervois (Syrah Grenache Carignan Mourvèdre) - touch more vanilla but also lively floral spice notes; attractive juicy v fresh and tight mouthfeel, enough black cherry fruit to absorb the choco oak; more elegant and perfumed than the 2003. 89+
2004 Corbières (variation of same grapes) - tighter more blackcurranty fruit, again very light oak and reductive notes; nice concentration v firm tannins, elegant and long; needs a little time to express itself. 87-89
2003 L’Icone Corbières - powerful barrel-fermented, limited series red: pretty rich, spicy and toasty nose leads to very concentrated choco palate, sweet fruit v solid rounded mouthfeel, actually 15% but not so obvious. Quite wow Parker-esque style (sorry Robert for that sweeping comment), not sure I'd want to drink more than a glass. 90 (purely as a 'show' wine)
Domaine de Sérame
2005 Merlot Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - appealing plum and cherry aromas with very background oak, good varietal character; aromatic v chunky, attractive style. 87-89
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - quite tangy and tight, perhaps bottle-shocked needing a few months; it does say Cab with less charm than the Merlot, maybe an awkward adolescence...
2005 Viognier Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - delicious floral apricot notes, gummy and fresh v fatter 'sweet' fruit, clean long finish. 87-89
2005 Muscat sec Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - sexy pure piercing orange peel and grape aromas build to a very zesty palate, 13.5% adds weight yet it's long and fine. 90
Latest vintages tasted here (Corbières report May 2011).
North of Lézignan: www.chateaudeserame.com
"...Delving deeper into the Corbières, this huge region has been witnessing an impressive transformation with several very serious investors on the scene. Château de Sérame is an extensive property straddling both Corbières and Minervois, who went into partnership with Bordeaux magnate Dourthe four years ago. With 120 hectares in production and 10 being replanted every year, “our aim is benchmark wines” commented winemaker Vincent Bernard..." Read the rest of this article for more info (scroll down to OLN 2006).
Tasted July 2006:
2003 Minervois (Syrah Grenache Carignan Mourvèdre) - warm blackberry and liquorice fruit with light toasty oak, slightly 'reductive' tang and complexity; nice soft-ish texture v depth of fruit, weight (13.5%) and chocolate coating; quite big yet the fruit wins the day. 87-89
2004 Minervois (Syrah Grenache Carignan Mourvèdre) - touch more vanilla but also lively floral spice notes; attractive juicy v fresh and tight mouthfeel, enough black cherry fruit to absorb the choco oak; more elegant and perfumed than the 2003. 89+
2004 Corbières (variation of same grapes) - tighter more blackcurranty fruit, again very light oak and reductive notes; nice concentration v firm tannins, elegant and long; needs a little time to express itself. 87-89
2003 L’Icone Corbières - powerful barrel-fermented, limited series red: pretty rich, spicy and toasty nose leads to very concentrated choco palate, sweet fruit v solid rounded mouthfeel, actually 15% but not so obvious. Quite wow Parker-esque style (sorry Robert for that sweeping comment), not sure I'd want to drink more than a glass. 90 (purely as a 'show' wine)
Domaine de Sérame
2005 Merlot Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - appealing plum and cherry aromas with very background oak, good varietal character; aromatic v chunky, attractive style. 87-89
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - quite tangy and tight, perhaps bottle-shocked needing a few months; it does say Cab with less charm than the Merlot, maybe an awkward adolescence...
2005 Viognier Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - delicious floral apricot notes, gummy and fresh v fatter 'sweet' fruit, clean long finish. 87-89
2005 Muscat sec Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - sexy pure piercing orange peel and grape aromas build to a very zesty palate, 13.5% adds weight yet it's long and fine. 90
Latest vintages tasted here (Corbières report May 2011).
North of Lézignan: www.chateaudeserame.com
30 Jun 2006
Signature Bio organic wine competition
Signature Bio organic wine competition June 2006
The wines were marked out of twenty - 12 to 13 for a Bronze medal (equivalent to 80-84 on the 100 point scale), 14 to 15 for Silver (85-89) and 16 to 20 for Gold (90-100). This seems a little generous to me, and why such a wide band for gold medal? Compare this to the International Wine Challenge, for example: Gold 95-100, Silver 90-94, Bronze 85-89 and Seal of Approval 80-84 (whatever that means). Each wine category was divided into tasting flights by style and vintage (certain judges weren't comfortable with this, as the appellation wines and vins de pays were mixed together; who cares, I say) with a 'possible number of medals' depending on how many wines in each flight, coming to max 29% of 197 samples in total. Is it a good idea to suggest up-front how many medals could/should be awarded? Surely best to let the juries decide which wines are worth what...
I was Judge Dredd at this organic wine competition held in rather-hot-June at the AIVBLR's HQ (Languedoc-Roussillon organic growers' association, with the very French 'interprofession' word in it), who also organise Millésime Bio trade show where the medal winners are officially honoured. Apart from my pick of the ones I tasted - blind of course, their identity was revealed afterwards - I've also included notes and scores for all the gold-decorated wines. The competition covers the whole of Mediterranean France, so organic growers from Provence and southern Rhône as well as Languedoc-Roussillon. Two things stand out in particular: many of them are under €10 and are vins de pays, which certain people strangely regard as inferior to appellation wines! As for the judging process and results, I think it's worth adding a few candid comments.
The wines were marked out of twenty - 12 to 13 for a Bronze medal (equivalent to 80-84 on the 100 point scale), 14 to 15 for Silver (85-89) and 16 to 20 for Gold (90-100). This seems a little generous to me, and why such a wide band for gold medal? Compare this to the International Wine Challenge, for example: Gold 95-100, Silver 90-94, Bronze 85-89 and Seal of Approval 80-84 (whatever that means). Each wine category was divided into tasting flights by style and vintage (certain judges weren't comfortable with this, as the appellation wines and vins de pays were mixed together; who cares, I say) with a 'possible number of medals' depending on how many wines in each flight, coming to max 29% of 197 samples in total. Is it a good idea to suggest up-front how many medals could/should be awarded? Surely best to let the juries decide which wines are worth what...
In the end, 23% of the wines were given medals including nearly 7% gold (11 plus 2 'highly rated') and more silvers than bronzes. The IWC "rewarded 64% of entries" including the more modest Seal of Approval but only 3% gold medals. I should also add I was frustrated by some of the judges' inability to spot faults. For example, I tasted the gold medal winning Marselan from Dom. de l'Attilon (see below) three times, blind and uncovered, and found excessive reductive/sulphide notes. Admittedly it was a youthful red perhaps only just bottled; this does happen and the off-smells can disappear, but the level here went beyond potential aromatic complexity! Anyway, enough of the maths and chemistry, let's move on to the wines. The panel I was on tasted Provence, southern Rhône and Côte d'Azur reds by the way.
GOLD
Highly rated: 2001 Cuvée des Cadettes Château la Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape - ripe smoky and oaky on the nose, rich extracted and concentrated with nice dark fruit and rounded tannins; powerful finish but still too much vanilla oak, which by my reckoning leaves it just short of gold. By far the most expensive wine in the show at €56.50. 15 / 87-89
More La Nerthe here.
Highly rated: 2005 Le Sol Blanc Château Veredus, vin de pays (VDP) d'Oc - peachy fruit v good mineral intensity, crisp long finish. Very attractive but not really competition winning wine, although good value at €4. 14.5 / 87
2005 Cuvée Inès Château la Rèze, Minervois - lively citrus fruit edged with intricate yeast-lees notes, very light toast and fatness v crisp length. €6.80 15.5 / 88-90
2005 Cuvée Tradition rosé Domaine des Aspras, Côtes de Provence - classic delicate style, tight zesty and long. €6.50 15 / 87-89
2005 Merlot Domaine des Soulié, VDP des Monts de la Grage - cherry fruit aromas with meaty notes, a bit oxidised; spicy dark fruit palate, quite inky with menthol undertones. €5.50 14.5 / 87
2005 Côtes du Rhône Château les Quatre Filles - rustic spicy nose leads to tight cherry-fruited palate, firm tannins and good length. €5.20 15 / 87-89
SILVER
Highly rated: 2001 Cuvée des Cadettes Château la Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape - ripe smoky and oaky on the nose, rich extracted and concentrated with nice dark fruit and rounded tannins; powerful finish but still too much vanilla oak, which by my reckoning leaves it just short of gold. By far the most expensive wine in the show at €56.50. 15 / 87-89
More La Nerthe here.
Highly rated: 2005 Le Sol Blanc Château Veredus, vin de pays (VDP) d'Oc - peachy fruit v good mineral intensity, crisp long finish. Very attractive but not really competition winning wine, although good value at €4. 14.5 / 87
2005 Cuvée Inès Château la Rèze, Minervois - lively citrus fruit edged with intricate yeast-lees notes, very light toast and fatness v crisp length. €6.80 15.5 / 88-90
2005 Cuvée Tradition rosé Domaine des Aspras, Côtes de Provence - classic delicate style, tight zesty and long. €6.50 15 / 87-89
2005 Merlot Domaine des Soulié, VDP des Monts de la Grage - cherry fruit aromas with meaty notes, a bit oxidised; spicy dark fruit palate, quite inky with menthol undertones. €5.50 14.5 / 87
2005 Côtes du Rhône Château les Quatre Filles - rustic spicy nose leads to tight cherry-fruited palate, firm tannins and good length. €5.20 15 / 87-89
2002 Prestige Château Bousquette, Saint Chinian - smoky black fruit notes edged with nice minty spicy chocolate, quite rich mouth-feel with tight firm finish. €8.95 16 / 89-91
2003 La Lignée Julien Mas de Janiny, Coteaux du Languedoc - leather and pepper tones set the scene for ripe liquorice fruit v solid tannins and impressive finish. €11.50 17 / 90-92
2004 Alix Château Pech-Latt, Corbières - the bottle I tasted was faulty, a bit oxidised and dusty? At Millésime Bio back in January I said this about it: ripe and silky liquorice and herb flavours build to dry grip and elegant length. €18.30 16 / 89-91
2004 Grenache de l'Etoile Domaine de Clairac, VDP de l'Hérault - smoky toasty aromas with very intense cassis fruit, shows good length and balance. €8.50 16 / 89-91
2004 Pioch de l'Oule Domaine Costeplane, VDP d'Oc - quite jammy with oaky background, nice enough but fairly simple. €7.40 14 / 85-87
2005 Marselan Domaine de l'Attilon, VDP des Bouches du Rhône - 1. a bit reductive, spicy cherry fruit but rather over-extracted tannins. 2. similar nose and palate, the fruit's coming through better this time. 3. Sulphide notes still dominate, crisp cassis and cherry fruit, still rather firm yet elegant. €4 13 / 85
2004 Confidentiel Domaine Montirius, Gigondas - blackcurrant & blueberry fruit with savoury backdrop, tight firm palate but elegant too v power. €29 15 / 87-89
2003 La Lignée Julien Mas de Janiny, Coteaux du Languedoc - leather and pepper tones set the scene for ripe liquorice fruit v solid tannins and impressive finish. €11.50 17 / 90-92
2004 Alix Château Pech-Latt, Corbières - the bottle I tasted was faulty, a bit oxidised and dusty? At Millésime Bio back in January I said this about it: ripe and silky liquorice and herb flavours build to dry grip and elegant length. €18.30 16 / 89-91
2004 Grenache de l'Etoile Domaine de Clairac, VDP de l'Hérault - smoky toasty aromas with very intense cassis fruit, shows good length and balance. €8.50 16 / 89-91
2004 Pioch de l'Oule Domaine Costeplane, VDP d'Oc - quite jammy with oaky background, nice enough but fairly simple. €7.40 14 / 85-87
2005 Marselan Domaine de l'Attilon, VDP des Bouches du Rhône - 1. a bit reductive, spicy cherry fruit but rather over-extracted tannins. 2. similar nose and palate, the fruit's coming through better this time. 3. Sulphide notes still dominate, crisp cassis and cherry fruit, still rather firm yet elegant. €4 13 / 85
2004 Confidentiel Domaine Montirius, Gigondas - blackcurrant & blueberry fruit with savoury backdrop, tight firm palate but elegant too v power. €29 15 / 87-89
SILVER
2004 VDP de Vaucluse Château la Canorgue - shades of meaty complexity, lovely peppery fruit on the palate supported by subtle oak, rich concentrated and powerful. €12 15-16 / 88-90
2003 La Chapelle de Romanin Château Romanin, les Baux-de-Provence - attractive rustic wild herb aromas layered with liquorice, good depth of fruit and balance, ripe v firm; stylish. €9.40 15-16 / 88-90
2003 La Chapelle de Romanin Château Romanin, les Baux-de-Provence - attractive rustic wild herb aromas layered with liquorice, good depth of fruit and balance, ripe v firm; stylish. €9.40 15-16 / 88-90
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Domaine des Beynes, VDP Bouches du Rhône - ripe and smoky with spicy savoury undertones, quite extracted rustic fruit and firm tannins with background oak, muscular finish. €4 13 / 85
2005 VDP Bouches du Rhône Mas du Petit Azégat - herbal slightly reduced yet interesting nose, spicy wild cassis fruit, elegant and unusual although lacks a bit of ripeness. Still, it only costs €2.50. 13.5 / 85
Other SILVER MEDALS I didn't taste:
BRONZE
Château de Bastet Côtes du Rhône Les Acacias 2005
Domaine Bassac VDP Côtes de Thongue Syrah 2005
Château Sainte-Marguerite Côtes de Provence Grande Réserve Rosé 2005
Domaine de la Grande Pallière Côtes de Provence 2005
Domaine de Clairac VDP d'Oc Réserve de Chasse 2004
Domaine Pastouret Costières de Nîmes 2005
For some reason our panel didn't put through any wines for Bronze, which were deemed to miss Silver medal. Anyway, I thought these deserved it:
2005 VDP Bouches du Rhône Mas du Petit Azégat - herbal slightly reduced yet interesting nose, spicy wild cassis fruit, elegant and unusual although lacks a bit of ripeness. Still, it only costs €2.50. 13.5 / 85
Other SILVER MEDALS I didn't taste:
Domaine du Jas d’Esclans Côtes de Provence Cru Classé Cuvée du Loup Rosé 2005
Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Clos de Beauvenir 2003
VDP du Gard Domaine de Tavernel 2005
Domaine de Tavernel VDP du Gard 2005
Minervois Château La Rèze 2004
Clos de Barbéjo VDP d'Oc Elégance 2004
Château La Canorgue VDP de Vaucluse Viognier 2005
Peter Riegel VDP du Gard Le Corbeau Rosé 2005
Château Les Eydins Côtes du Lubéron Cuvée des Consuls 2004
Château Les Eydins Côtes du Lubéron Fontête 2004
Domaine Siméoni VDP d'Oc Mourvèdre 2004 - at Millésime Bio I said this about it: youthful black cherry fruit with earthy peppery notes, nice olive fruit and grip on the finish. 87
Château de Brau Cabardès Le Suc de Brau 2002
Château de Brau VDP Cité de Carcassonne Méditation Syrah 2004
Les Vignerons de Correns Côtes de Provence Croix de Basson Rosé 2005
Domaine Grand Corbière VDP Sables du Golfe du Lion Chardonnay 2005
Domaine Grand Corbière VDP Sables du Golfe du Lion Gris de Gris Rosé 2005
Château de l’Ou Côtes du Roussillon 2005
Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Clos de Beauvenir 2003
VDP du Gard Domaine de Tavernel 2005
Domaine de Tavernel VDP du Gard 2005
Minervois Château La Rèze 2004
Clos de Barbéjo VDP d'Oc Elégance 2004
Château La Canorgue VDP de Vaucluse Viognier 2005
Peter Riegel VDP du Gard Le Corbeau Rosé 2005
Château Les Eydins Côtes du Lubéron Cuvée des Consuls 2004
Château Les Eydins Côtes du Lubéron Fontête 2004
Domaine Siméoni VDP d'Oc Mourvèdre 2004 - at Millésime Bio I said this about it: youthful black cherry fruit with earthy peppery notes, nice olive fruit and grip on the finish. 87
Château de Brau Cabardès Le Suc de Brau 2002
Château de Brau VDP Cité de Carcassonne Méditation Syrah 2004
Les Vignerons de Correns Côtes de Provence Croix de Basson Rosé 2005
Domaine Grand Corbière VDP Sables du Golfe du Lion Chardonnay 2005
Domaine Grand Corbière VDP Sables du Golfe du Lion Gris de Gris Rosé 2005
Château de l’Ou Côtes du Roussillon 2005
BRONZE
Château de Bastet Côtes du Rhône Les Acacias 2005
Domaine Bassac VDP Côtes de Thongue Syrah 2005
Château Sainte-Marguerite Côtes de Provence Grande Réserve Rosé 2005
Domaine de la Grande Pallière Côtes de Provence 2005
Domaine de Clairac VDP d'Oc Réserve de Chasse 2004
Domaine Pastouret Costières de Nîmes 2005
Latest wines and profile on Pastouret: go to Languedoc winery A to Z, right hand column.
Château Bousquette St Chinian Cuvée Pruneyrac 2004
Peter Riegel VDP d'Oc Soliano Merlot 2005
Domaine de la Sauveuse Côtes de Provence Cuvée Philippine 2004
Domaine du Revaou Côtes de Provence 2004
Domaine du Revaou Côtes de Provence Rosé 2005
Les Vignerons de Tornac VDP des Cévennes Rosé 2005
Château Bousquette St Chinian Cuvée Pruneyrac 2004
Peter Riegel VDP d'Oc Soliano Merlot 2005
Domaine de la Sauveuse Côtes de Provence Cuvée Philippine 2004
Domaine du Revaou Côtes de Provence 2004
Domaine du Revaou Côtes de Provence Rosé 2005
Les Vignerons de Tornac VDP des Cévennes Rosé 2005
For some reason our panel didn't put through any wines for Bronze, which were deemed to miss Silver medal. Anyway, I thought these deserved it:
2003 Mas de Gourgonnier Réserve du Mas, les Baux-de-Provence - complex earthy medicine notes, maturing spicy fruit turning savoury with balanced dry tannins. We tasted this one twice in fact, so what happened? €8.80 15 / 87-89
2005 Marselan Domaine des Beynes, VDP Bouches du Rhône - better than their Cabernet, in my humble opinion: closed nose, some pure blackcurrant fruit; firm and tight yet has reasonable concentration, more savoury finish. €4 14.5 / 85-87
Click here for a post on Signature Bio 2010.
2005 Marselan Domaine des Beynes, VDP Bouches du Rhône - better than their Cabernet, in my humble opinion: closed nose, some pure blackcurrant fruit; firm and tight yet has reasonable concentration, more savoury finish. €4 14.5 / 85-87
Click here for a post on Signature Bio 2010.
6 Jun 2006
Languedoc: Château Coujan, Saint-Chinian
Château Coujan
Florence Guy makes quite a large and varied range at this peaceful estate found a few km out of Murviel-lès-Béziers, on the eastern side of the Saint-Chinian appellation. Her top wines are definitely worth seeking out, e.g. an off-the-wall 100% Mourvèdre that varies in taste-profile according to vintage - sometimes labelled as St-Chinian, sometimes Vin de Pays if ‘non-conformist’ in terms of alcohol or residual sugar content - see below for explanation! Her team also organises walks, wine dinners, summer concerts and art and cookery classes even (the Lebanese food weekend was a big hit apparently). There are also two on-site family gîtes available all year round (see website); it's quite nice just to hang out here sitting outside, and why not try Coujan’s olive oil while you're at it, listening to the roaming peacocks squawking (funny birds aren't they). Wines tasted June 2006:
2005 Rolle, Vin de Pays Coteaux de Murviel - floral and honeyed, crisp mineral tones v fatter fruit; different. €4.95 85
2005 Bois Joli, Saint-Chinian blanc (Rolle Grenache Blanc Roussanne) - barrel sample: light toast with mealy creamy notes, good weight and concentration v citrus zest. €6.90 87+
2004 Tradition rosé, Saint-Chinian (80%+ Mourvèdre) - attractive tangy strawberry fruit with still quite crisp and lively palate, fat v fresh finish. €4.60 87+
2003 Cuvée Gabrielle de Spinola, Saint-Chinian (Mourvèdre Syrah Grenache Cinsault) - lovely black cherry & olive aromas, liquorice v peppery; solid fruity mouthful, powerful yet balanced. €5.90 87-89
2002 Cuvée Spéciale Bois Joli, Saint-Chinian (Mourvèdre Syrah) - rich leather and spice tones with light chocolate, quite mature with nicely textured tannins. €12 87-89
2004 Ile de Corail, Vin de Pays Coteaux de Murviel (100%Mourvèdre) - gorgeous ripe wild herb, liquorice and cherry tones; rich lush mouthfeel v structured and fresh, very different. Actually has 10 grams residual sugar and 15% alc, hence why it's VDP this vintage! €23 90+
34490 Murviel-lès-Béziers. Tel: 04 67 37 80 00, chateau-coujan@orange.fr or stanislas.pujol@wanadoo.fr, www.chateau-coujan.com.
Florence Guy makes quite a large and varied range at this peaceful estate found a few km out of Murviel-lès-Béziers, on the eastern side of the Saint-Chinian appellation. Her top wines are definitely worth seeking out, e.g. an off-the-wall 100% Mourvèdre that varies in taste-profile according to vintage - sometimes labelled as St-Chinian, sometimes Vin de Pays if ‘non-conformist’ in terms of alcohol or residual sugar content - see below for explanation! Her team also organises walks, wine dinners, summer concerts and art and cookery classes even (the Lebanese food weekend was a big hit apparently). There are also two on-site family gîtes available all year round (see website); it's quite nice just to hang out here sitting outside, and why not try Coujan’s olive oil while you're at it, listening to the roaming peacocks squawking (funny birds aren't they). Wines tasted June 2006:
2005 Rolle, Vin de Pays Coteaux de Murviel - floral and honeyed, crisp mineral tones v fatter fruit; different. €4.95 85
2005 Bois Joli, Saint-Chinian blanc (Rolle Grenache Blanc Roussanne) - barrel sample: light toast with mealy creamy notes, good weight and concentration v citrus zest. €6.90 87+
2004 Tradition rosé, Saint-Chinian (80%+ Mourvèdre) - attractive tangy strawberry fruit with still quite crisp and lively palate, fat v fresh finish. €4.60 87+
2003 Cuvée Gabrielle de Spinola, Saint-Chinian (Mourvèdre Syrah Grenache Cinsault) - lovely black cherry & olive aromas, liquorice v peppery; solid fruity mouthful, powerful yet balanced. €5.90 87-89
2002 Cuvée Spéciale Bois Joli, Saint-Chinian (Mourvèdre Syrah) - rich leather and spice tones with light chocolate, quite mature with nicely textured tannins. €12 87-89
2004 Ile de Corail, Vin de Pays Coteaux de Murviel (100%Mourvèdre) - gorgeous ripe wild herb, liquorice and cherry tones; rich lush mouthfeel v structured and fresh, very different. Actually has 10 grams residual sugar and 15% alc, hence why it's VDP this vintage! €23 90+
34490 Murviel-lès-Béziers. Tel: 04 67 37 80 00, chateau-coujan@orange.fr or stanislas.pujol@wanadoo.fr, www.chateau-coujan.com.
30 May 2006
Biodynamic growers worldwide: "return to terroir"
In brief: "Biodynamic viticulture is slowly moving from obscure homeopathy-cum-astrology to hippy mainstream... the illustrious names who are members of the Renaissance des appellations or "Return to terroir" group... speak for themselves..." Two dozen 90+ pointers picked from a groundbreaking tasting in London (May 2006) including sublime wines from: Josmeyer, Falfas, Leroy, Abbatucci, Gauby, Coulée Serrant, Breton, Trévallon, Montirius, Chapoutier, Nikolaihof, Geyerhof, Herrnsheim, Sander, Eymann, Pepe, San Giuseppe, Trevvalle, Valgiano, Lezaun, Estela, Benziger, Bonterra, Antiyal and Castagna. Plus an attempted summary of Nicolas Joly's ideas, biodynamic guru grower and author: "winegrowing for the future..." Read on to be enlightened!
Biodynamic viticulture is slowly moving from obscure homeopathy-cum-astrology to hippy mainstream. As you'll see below, the illustrious names who are members of the Renaissance des Appellations - Return to Terroir group (120 of them in 12 countries) speak for themselves. I tried wines made by the following growers at a groundbreaking tasting during the London Wine Fair in May 2006: Josmeyer (Alsace), Falfas (Bordeaux), Derain, Leroy, (Burgundy), Abbatucci (Corsica), Gauby (Roussillon), Breton (Loire), Trévallon (Provence), Montirius, Chapoutier (Rhône), Nikolaihof, Geyerhof (Austria), Herrnsheim, Sander, Eymann (Germany), Pepe, San Giuseppe, Dodon, Castellina, Trevvalle, Valgiano (Italy), Lezaun, Estela (Spain), Benziger, Bonterra (USA), Emiliana, Antiyal (Chile) and Castagna (Aus). I've only included my favourite wine from each to avoid a great long list. There were many other top estates there too, just not possible to taste everything!
Nicolas Joly - owner of legendary Coulée de Serrant in Savennières (Loire Valley), the group's founder, author and biodynamic guru - believes the whole concept of appellation, that specific site brings unique character, has been lost in a frenzy of chemical farming and corner-cutting economics. I've attempted to summarise his talk at the event (posted after notes on the wines below) and hence ideas and way of life: some of it makes absolute sense, some a little hard to grasp... For further thoughts and perhaps clarity, you could read his book 'Le vin du ciel a la terre' ("wine, from heaven to earth") or try coulee-de-serrant.com.
Nicolas Joly - owner of legendary Coulée de Serrant in Savennières (Loire Valley), the group's founder, author and biodynamic guru - believes the whole concept of appellation, that specific site brings unique character, has been lost in a frenzy of chemical farming and corner-cutting economics. I've attempted to summarise his talk at the event (posted after notes on the wines below) and hence ideas and way of life: some of it makes absolute sense, some a little hard to grasp... For further thoughts and perhaps clarity, you could read his book 'Le vin du ciel a la terre' ("wine, from heaven to earth") or try coulee-de-serrant.com.
FRANCE
Domaine Josmeyer - Wintzenheim, Alsace
2004 Riesling les Pierrets - deliciously intense offering floral v citrus fruit, elegant and crisp finish. 90-92
Château Falfas - Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux
2002 Le Chevalier (Merlot Cabernet Malbec) - richer and smokier than the 'base' blend, again forward and leafy (indicative of 2002 probably) yet firmer and more concentrated to finish; nice now in fact. 88-90
Catherine & Dominique Derain - Saint Aubin, Burgundy
2003 Mercurey la Plante Chassey (Pinot Noir) - from a 0.9 ha plot (2¼ acres): scented violets and raspberry fruit, quite austere for a 2003 (hot vintage) with firm tannins v weighty mouth-feel; should open up. 87-89
Domaine Leroy - Auxey Duresses, Burgundy
2004 Vosne-Romanée (Pinot Noir) - wild smoky nose, quite concentrated and rich with 'sweet' start then savoury finish, fresh bite and length; real finesse.92-94
Comte Abbatucci - Ajaccio, Corsica
2003 Faustine (Niellucciu Sciacarellu) - fragrant garrigue notes (earthy wild herbs and flowers) bolstered by rich raisin fruit, very firm bite v nice soft palate. 89-91
Domaine Gauby - Calce, Roussillon
2003 Muntada (Carignan Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre) - stewed red and black fruit combo, power v grip on a complex concentrated palate; purity of fruit on the finish. 92 (More Gauby wines and info here).
Clos de la Coulée de Serrant - Savennières, Loire Valley
2003 Coulée de Serrant (Chenin Blanc) - floral peach stone aromas give way to richer fruit and palate, exotic v mineral intensity, quite big with 14.5% alc. yet finishes very fresh and tight; wow. 93-95
2002 Coulée de Serrant - oily developed nose, lovely texture of maturing complex fruit adding fatness, then again that minerality and fresh long finish complete the picture. 95-97
Domaine Catherine & Pierre Breton - Touraine, Loire Valley
2005 Bourgueil Trinch (Cabernet Franc) - delicious fruit with biscuity yet meaty edges; nice grip, fresh length and liquorice fruit all ride in together. 90
Domaine de Trévallon - Baux-de-Provence
2001 rouge (Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah) - herbal v smoky complexity, rich yet dry textured showing attractive maturing fruit v structured tannins. 92-94
Domaine Montirius - Vacqueyras, Rhône Valley
2003 Clos Montirius (Grenache Mourvèdre) - richer fruit than the 'non Clos' with spicy blackberry and rustic tones, firm and powerful yet sufficient weight of fruit too. 89-91
Maison M. Chapoutier - Hermitage, Rhône Valley
2003 Le Pavillon (Grenache Syrah) - spicy smoked bacon and blackberry notes, rich and complex with a hint of oak; concentrated fruit v very solid tannins; wow. 94
2004 Riesling les Pierrets - deliciously intense offering floral v citrus fruit, elegant and crisp finish. 90-92
Château Falfas - Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux
2002 Le Chevalier (Merlot Cabernet Malbec) - richer and smokier than the 'base' blend, again forward and leafy (indicative of 2002 probably) yet firmer and more concentrated to finish; nice now in fact. 88-90
Catherine & Dominique Derain - Saint Aubin, Burgundy
2003 Mercurey la Plante Chassey (Pinot Noir) - from a 0.9 ha plot (2¼ acres): scented violets and raspberry fruit, quite austere for a 2003 (hot vintage) with firm tannins v weighty mouth-feel; should open up. 87-89
Domaine Leroy - Auxey Duresses, Burgundy
2004 Vosne-Romanée (Pinot Noir) - wild smoky nose, quite concentrated and rich with 'sweet' start then savoury finish, fresh bite and length; real finesse.92-94
Comte Abbatucci - Ajaccio, Corsica
2003 Faustine (Niellucciu Sciacarellu) - fragrant garrigue notes (earthy wild herbs and flowers) bolstered by rich raisin fruit, very firm bite v nice soft palate. 89-91
Domaine Gauby - Calce, Roussillon
2003 Muntada (Carignan Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre) - stewed red and black fruit combo, power v grip on a complex concentrated palate; purity of fruit on the finish. 92 (More Gauby wines and info here).
Clos de la Coulée de Serrant - Savennières, Loire Valley
2003 Coulée de Serrant (Chenin Blanc) - floral peach stone aromas give way to richer fruit and palate, exotic v mineral intensity, quite big with 14.5% alc. yet finishes very fresh and tight; wow. 93-95
2002 Coulée de Serrant - oily developed nose, lovely texture of maturing complex fruit adding fatness, then again that minerality and fresh long finish complete the picture. 95-97
Domaine Catherine & Pierre Breton - Touraine, Loire Valley
2005 Bourgueil Trinch (Cabernet Franc) - delicious fruit with biscuity yet meaty edges; nice grip, fresh length and liquorice fruit all ride in together. 90
Domaine de Trévallon - Baux-de-Provence
2001 rouge (Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah) - herbal v smoky complexity, rich yet dry textured showing attractive maturing fruit v structured tannins. 92-94
Domaine Montirius - Vacqueyras, Rhône Valley
2003 Clos Montirius (Grenache Mourvèdre) - richer fruit than the 'non Clos' with spicy blackberry and rustic tones, firm and powerful yet sufficient weight of fruit too. 89-91
Maison M. Chapoutier - Hermitage, Rhône Valley
2003 Le Pavillon (Grenache Syrah) - spicy smoked bacon and blackberry notes, rich and complex with a hint of oak; concentrated fruit v very solid tannins; wow. 94
AUSTRIA
Nikolaihof - Wachau
2005 Vom Stein Riesling Federspiel - pure flowery aromas with mineral celery notes, richer and more exotic than the nose suggested finishing with crisp fresh length. 88-90
Weingut Geyerhof - Kremstal
2005 Grüner Veltliner Steinleithn - floral with mineral vegetal undertones, very concentrated and rich with oily extract followed by crisp bite, very long with real fruit purity and mineral intensity. 93-95
2005 Riesling Goldberg - delicately floral with blackcurrant notes, super zesty citrus palate with gummy texture, gorgeous fruit layered on its mineral acid structure; sublime Riesling. 95
2005 Vom Stein Riesling Federspiel - pure flowery aromas with mineral celery notes, richer and more exotic than the nose suggested finishing with crisp fresh length. 88-90
Weingut Geyerhof - Kremstal
2005 Grüner Veltliner Steinleithn - floral with mineral vegetal undertones, very concentrated and rich with oily extract followed by crisp bite, very long with real fruit purity and mineral intensity. 93-95
2005 Riesling Goldberg - delicately floral with blackcurrant notes, super zesty citrus palate with gummy texture, gorgeous fruit layered on its mineral acid structure; sublime Riesling. 95
GERMANY
Freiherr Heyl zu Herrnsheim - Rheinhessen
2004 Pettental Riesling First Growth, Spätlese trocken - a bit closed on the nose, less obviously fruity than their (very good) Kabinett Riesling but much more intense and mineral, pure extract v shimmering acidity on its full dry finish; class. 93-95
Weingut Sander - Rheinhessen
2003 Gewürztraminer Mettenheim, Auslese - the first organic vineyard in Germany in fact (1950): this has lovely pure sweet Auslese style with floral lychee fruit, opulent mouth-feel yet freshness to balance on its long finish. 89-91
Weingut Eymann - Pfalz
2004 Riesling Toreye, Auslese - delicious aromas, oily yet citrusy; concentrated and rich yet hardly seems sweet thanks to fresh acidity and impeccable balance; very long. 95
2004 Pettental Riesling First Growth, Spätlese trocken - a bit closed on the nose, less obviously fruity than their (very good) Kabinett Riesling but much more intense and mineral, pure extract v shimmering acidity on its full dry finish; class. 93-95
Weingut Sander - Rheinhessen
2003 Gewürztraminer Mettenheim, Auslese - the first organic vineyard in Germany in fact (1950): this has lovely pure sweet Auslese style with floral lychee fruit, opulent mouth-feel yet freshness to balance on its long finish. 89-91
Weingut Eymann - Pfalz
2004 Riesling Toreye, Auslese - delicious aromas, oily yet citrusy; concentrated and rich yet hardly seems sweet thanks to fresh acidity and impeccable balance; very long. 95
ITALY
Azienda Agricola Bio Emidio Pepe - Abruzzo
1983 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - very raisiny yet savoury with sweet fruit v red pepper tones, mature tannins but still alive and kicking. Wow: 95. His 2001 is a 90+er too.
Azienda Agricola San Giuseppe - Tuscany
2004 Rosso di Montalcino (Sangiovese, barrel sample) - meaty tar aromas, very firm palate yet rich with nice tobacco and plum fruit; should be very good.90-92
Domaine Borc Dodon - Friuli
2001 Refosco dal Peduncolo rosso - plum and soy sauce notes, sweet v savoury; chunky maturing fruit and tannins; different. 87-89
Fattoria Castellina - Tuscany
2004 Daino Bianco, Toscana rosso (Merlot) - attractive dark plum v red pepper and soy undertones, chocolate oak and extracted fruit, pretty big tannins and lush mouth-feel; good but a bit forced. 89
Poggio Trevvalle - Tuscany
2004 Morellino di Scansano 'Larcille' (Sangiovese) - perfumed floral and earthy, concentrated cherry and raisin fruit with tight firm finish, elegant and fresh. 92-94
Tenuta di Valgiano - Tuscany
2003 Tenuta di Valgiano (Sangiovese Merlot Syrah) - quite closed and showing a tad more oak than their Palistorti, this is concentrated with rich fruit and power, contrasting with nice bitter twist and well-integrated 14.5% alc. 93-95
1983 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - very raisiny yet savoury with sweet fruit v red pepper tones, mature tannins but still alive and kicking. Wow: 95. His 2001 is a 90+er too.
Azienda Agricola San Giuseppe - Tuscany
2004 Rosso di Montalcino (Sangiovese, barrel sample) - meaty tar aromas, very firm palate yet rich with nice tobacco and plum fruit; should be very good.90-92
Domaine Borc Dodon - Friuli
2001 Refosco dal Peduncolo rosso - plum and soy sauce notes, sweet v savoury; chunky maturing fruit and tannins; different. 87-89
Fattoria Castellina - Tuscany
2004 Daino Bianco, Toscana rosso (Merlot) - attractive dark plum v red pepper and soy undertones, chocolate oak and extracted fruit, pretty big tannins and lush mouth-feel; good but a bit forced. 89
Poggio Trevvalle - Tuscany
2004 Morellino di Scansano 'Larcille' (Sangiovese) - perfumed floral and earthy, concentrated cherry and raisin fruit with tight firm finish, elegant and fresh. 92-94
Tenuta di Valgiano - Tuscany
2003 Tenuta di Valgiano (Sangiovese Merlot Syrah) - quite closed and showing a tad more oak than their Palistorti, this is concentrated with rich fruit and power, contrasting with nice bitter twist and well-integrated 14.5% alc. 93-95
Bodegas Lezaun - Navarra
2002 Reserva (Tempranillo Garnacha Graciano) - complex herbal notes on a smoky backdrop, rich and firm with power yet tight and elegant too v maturing fruit. 90-92
Mas Estela - Empordá Costa Brava
2003 Vinya Selva de Mar (Garnacha Carignan Syrah) - savoury fruit aromas lead to a firm closed up palate, powerful with meaty fruit and grip on the finish. 90-92
2002 Reserva (Tempranillo Garnacha Graciano) - complex herbal notes on a smoky backdrop, rich and firm with power yet tight and elegant too v maturing fruit. 90-92
Mas Estela - Empordá Costa Brava
2003 Vinya Selva de Mar (Garnacha Carignan Syrah) - savoury fruit aromas lead to a firm closed up palate, powerful with meaty fruit and grip on the finish. 90-92
USA
Benziger Family Winery - Sonoma Mountain
2002 Tribute (Cabernets Sauvignon & Franc Merlot Petit Verdot) - rustic yet herbal with oak and cassis tones, soft fruit with nice dry texture and bite. 90-92
2005 Sauvignon Blanc Paradiso de Maria - very lively pure and mineral with gooseberry and grapefruit flavours, long fine finish. 90-92
Bonterra Vineyards - Mendocino
2002 McNab Ranch red table wine (Merlot Cabernet Petite Sirah) - pretty okay but the palate's more subtle offering nice maturing blackcurrant and raisin fruit, firm yet rounded and long. 88-90
2002 Tribute (Cabernets Sauvignon & Franc Merlot Petit Verdot) - rustic yet herbal with oak and cassis tones, soft fruit with nice dry texture and bite. 90-92
2005 Sauvignon Blanc Paradiso de Maria - very lively pure and mineral with gooseberry and grapefruit flavours, long fine finish. 90-92
Bonterra Vineyards - Mendocino
2002 McNab Ranch red table wine (Merlot Cabernet Petite Sirah) - pretty okay but the palate's more subtle offering nice maturing blackcurrant and raisin fruit, firm yet rounded and long. 88-90
CHILE
Viñedos Organicos Emiliana
2004 Novas Syrah Mourvèdre - the vanilla toasted oak is a bit strong but this has good depth of fruit on its tight palate, nice fresh bite of tannins and acidity; hope the oak drops out. 89
Viña Antiyal - Maipo Valley
2002 Antiyal (Carmenère Cabernet Syrah) - smoky rustic and lush with firm v ripe palate, has weight intensity and interesting choco v pepper characters, tight long finish. 92-94
2004 Novas Syrah Mourvèdre - the vanilla toasted oak is a bit strong but this has good depth of fruit on its tight palate, nice fresh bite of tannins and acidity; hope the oak drops out. 89
Viña Antiyal - Maipo Valley
2002 Antiyal (Carmenère Cabernet Syrah) - smoky rustic and lush with firm v ripe palate, has weight intensity and interesting choco v pepper characters, tight long finish. 92-94
AUSTRALIA
Castagna Vineyard - Victoria
2002 Genesis Syrah - minty style showing nice pure Syrah fruit and spice, subtle concentration and power v elegant length. 90-92
2002 Genesis Syrah - minty style showing nice pure Syrah fruit and spice, subtle concentration and power v elegant length. 90-92
"You have to understand about life and living things to appreciate the effect of life. What is Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée? Most wines don't carry the 'taste of origin', why not? We have to go back to farming, nature's assistant isn't the winemaker. AOC is based on climate - heat, light, rain, humidity - and soil / geology. Then take the grape variety, how do you bring it up in the above environment? You can't just look at the smallest component of matter, it's a dead end.
Hence why we've gone back to the old botanical view to look at plants differently. The Earth's power - gravity makes matter physical, attract to the Earth and also react against it - plus heat light and air, minerality or level of minerals, liquids and gases. The vine is caught by the Earth's forces, mostly pulling it down. It has no capacity to grow upwards yet has an enormous ability to grow in the poorest soils.
In the 60s and 70s nasty herbicides were sold to clean the vineyard; we had no information about them at that time and they killed all micro-organisms and hence the terroir effect. It's essential for the roots to draw the vine's needs, assisted by bacteria etc. So when the roots are starved they turn back up to the surface to find the chemical fertilisers that are also added!
After the summer solstice, vines shouldn't grow outwards anymore but inwards; if you add fertilisers and water, you force growth which provokes diseases, e.g. fungus to regulate this growth. Systemic chemicals get into the sap and poison the plant, leading to a natural imbalance and more diseases. It's the same story with all these yeast strains that influence flavour, it's not the flavour of terroir; or technology such as reverse osmosis. Stupid clones aren't progress: it's like the army, they all behave the same! And having say 3 clones, that's not proper mass selection; a blend of different plots brings synergy.
So we've reached a crisis and realised we have to return to organic viticulture, biodynamic being the full expression of this. Unfortunately some might be doing it because it's trendy, but in the first 2 to 3 years there's a real risk, you could lose a chunk of your crop. So it can't be done for quick profit, it's a long term philosophy.
Biodynamic farming helps nature do its job by restoring forces and recreating balance. It's important to understand other plants and their uses. Aloe Vera helps scorched leaves, seaweed has a similar effect when it's hot, by producing colloids, applied as a 'tea'. Camomile combined with cow gut as this digests it best = synergy.
Spring represents the point when the sun is stronger than the earth's force; it's the opposite at the start of autumn. The solstice = complete victory of the sun over the earth, or vice versa (summer v winter). Grapes are the crop but are really about the vine producing seeds to continue its survival. The best wines are thus made when vines flower around 10th June (northern hemisphere); if it's too early, taking say California, the best sites are therefore at altitude facing west to delay it.
The treatments we apply, a few 100 grams per hectare, all have a specific purpose because of the different bacterial, chemical, mineral composition of each one. When 'dynamised' we move from macro to micro with matter working in opposition to non-matter. This gets the vines to tune into each specific process at certain times, which gives them the need to be healthy. Organic works on a physical level, biodynamic on an 'energetic' level.
Three key issues in summary:
Chemical spraying appears set to continue in conventional viticulture, yet these chemicals make vines less able to receive solar energy through leaves and the soil's vitality through roots. The more you use to attempt to control disease, the more you need to use as the vines get weaker and weaker. So reliance on technology to produce 'quality' becomes greater.
So-called 'agriculture raisonnée' (like integrated pest management) doesn't represent any real progress, as it sets its sights no higher than a 20% reduction in toxic chemicals.
By using the 'world of energy' more directly, biodynamic viticulture increases the vine's receptivity to its environment and the way it expresses it in the wine.
The Quality Charter is divided into 3 levels:
Level 1: the basic principals, which must be implemented on the whole vineyard for at least three years. Ploughing or grass cover (no weed-killers), compost or organic fertilisers only, use of natural products to fight diseases as per organic norms, indigenous yeasts only, no GM vines.
Level 2: hand-picking, natural fermentation with no enzymes or aids, no interference with natural grape concentration such as cryo-extraction or reverse osmosis, manual selection of vine cuttings for true field selection.
Level 3: adverse weather might prevent compliance every year. No must rectification such as acidifying or chaptalising, no fining, max sterile filtration of 1 micron."
Hence why we've gone back to the old botanical view to look at plants differently. The Earth's power - gravity makes matter physical, attract to the Earth and also react against it - plus heat light and air, minerality or level of minerals, liquids and gases. The vine is caught by the Earth's forces, mostly pulling it down. It has no capacity to grow upwards yet has an enormous ability to grow in the poorest soils.
In the 60s and 70s nasty herbicides were sold to clean the vineyard; we had no information about them at that time and they killed all micro-organisms and hence the terroir effect. It's essential for the roots to draw the vine's needs, assisted by bacteria etc. So when the roots are starved they turn back up to the surface to find the chemical fertilisers that are also added!
After the summer solstice, vines shouldn't grow outwards anymore but inwards; if you add fertilisers and water, you force growth which provokes diseases, e.g. fungus to regulate this growth. Systemic chemicals get into the sap and poison the plant, leading to a natural imbalance and more diseases. It's the same story with all these yeast strains that influence flavour, it's not the flavour of terroir; or technology such as reverse osmosis. Stupid clones aren't progress: it's like the army, they all behave the same! And having say 3 clones, that's not proper mass selection; a blend of different plots brings synergy.
So we've reached a crisis and realised we have to return to organic viticulture, biodynamic being the full expression of this. Unfortunately some might be doing it because it's trendy, but in the first 2 to 3 years there's a real risk, you could lose a chunk of your crop. So it can't be done for quick profit, it's a long term philosophy.
Biodynamic farming helps nature do its job by restoring forces and recreating balance. It's important to understand other plants and their uses. Aloe Vera helps scorched leaves, seaweed has a similar effect when it's hot, by producing colloids, applied as a 'tea'. Camomile combined with cow gut as this digests it best = synergy.
Spring represents the point when the sun is stronger than the earth's force; it's the opposite at the start of autumn. The solstice = complete victory of the sun over the earth, or vice versa (summer v winter). Grapes are the crop but are really about the vine producing seeds to continue its survival. The best wines are thus made when vines flower around 10th June (northern hemisphere); if it's too early, taking say California, the best sites are therefore at altitude facing west to delay it.
The treatments we apply, a few 100 grams per hectare, all have a specific purpose because of the different bacterial, chemical, mineral composition of each one. When 'dynamised' we move from macro to micro with matter working in opposition to non-matter. This gets the vines to tune into each specific process at certain times, which gives them the need to be healthy. Organic works on a physical level, biodynamic on an 'energetic' level.
Three key issues in summary:
Chemical spraying appears set to continue in conventional viticulture, yet these chemicals make vines less able to receive solar energy through leaves and the soil's vitality through roots. The more you use to attempt to control disease, the more you need to use as the vines get weaker and weaker. So reliance on technology to produce 'quality' becomes greater.
So-called 'agriculture raisonnée' (like integrated pest management) doesn't represent any real progress, as it sets its sights no higher than a 20% reduction in toxic chemicals.
By using the 'world of energy' more directly, biodynamic viticulture increases the vine's receptivity to its environment and the way it expresses it in the wine.
The Quality Charter is divided into 3 levels:
Level 1: the basic principals, which must be implemented on the whole vineyard for at least three years. Ploughing or grass cover (no weed-killers), compost or organic fertilisers only, use of natural products to fight diseases as per organic norms, indigenous yeasts only, no GM vines.
Level 2: hand-picking, natural fermentation with no enzymes or aids, no interference with natural grape concentration such as cryo-extraction or reverse osmosis, manual selection of vine cuttings for true field selection.
Level 3: adverse weather might prevent compliance every year. No must rectification such as acidifying or chaptalising, no fining, max sterile filtration of 1 micron."
Roussillon: 6th Fenouillèdes wine fair
"Winegrowers in the Fenouillèdes region, draped across a dramatic, elevated valley landscape bridging Corbières and French Catalonia, are talking enthusiastically about their wines and the unforgiving terrain that cradles their vineyards." This wine fair revealed a number of up-and-coming quality estates keen to spread the word. Richard Case of Domaine Pertuisane describes the old vine Grenache here as "unparalleled anywhere in France..." Read on for other names to look out for with my comments and tasting notes.
Click here for further reflection and prosaic scribbling: Finding Fenouillèdes country. Loads more from the area under Roussillon-French Catalonia winery A to Z (right hand column), where you'll find links through to updates and profiles on most of these producers:
Domaine des Soulanes
2004 Bastoul Laffite, vin de pays Côtes Catalanes (Grenache) - lifted spicy nose with very light oak, power v elegant fruit, nice dry structure and length. 88-90
2004 Sarrat del Mas Côtes du Roussillon Villages (CdRV) (Grenache Carignan Syrah) - smokier and richer, again shows that black fruit and pepper combo, weight v finesse and dry v 'sweet' texture; more power and oak than above but it's impressively balanced. 92-94
2004 Bastoul Laffite, vin de pays Côtes Catalanes (Grenache) - lifted spicy nose with very light oak, power v elegant fruit, nice dry structure and length. 88-90
2004 Sarrat del Mas Côtes du Roussillon Villages (CdRV) (Grenache Carignan Syrah) - smokier and richer, again shows that black fruit and pepper combo, weight v finesse and dry v 'sweet' texture; more power and oak than above but it's impressively balanced. 92-94
Château Saint Roch
2004 La Bastide blanc - toasty and creamy with aniseed undertones, fat yet mineral and crisp; good foodie white, may be too toasty for some. 85-87
2003 Kerbuccio CdRV (Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre) - smoky tar and black olive, luscious maturing fruit set against firm powerful backdrop, good stylish length. 90-92
2003 Kerbuccio CdRV (Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre) - smoky tar and black olive, luscious maturing fruit set against firm powerful backdrop, good stylish length. 90-92
Domaine de l'Edre
2005 CdR blanc - yeasty and fat start leads to fresh mineral poise, crisp and dry v rich mouth-feel. 87-89
2004 Dom de l'Edre CdRV (Syrah Grenache Carignan) - rich vibrant blackberry fruit with chocolate oak texture, firm closed up finish but it reveals more with a little aeration, dense and powerful (14.5%) yet has mineral bite too. Needs time. 87-89
Domaine Barriot - Clos de l'Origine
2004 Vin de Pays rouge (40% Mourvèdre, no sulphur dioxide) - aromatic black olive and cherry notes lead to quite rich concentrated fruit, firm fresh and a little closed up on the finish but that black fruit/olive comes back impressively. 89-91
2004 CdR (Carignan Grenache Syrah) - quite fleshy with a touch of spicy oak, soft and elegant though with fresh length, light tannins and attractive fruit. 89
2004 CdR (Carignan Grenache Syrah) - quite fleshy with a touch of spicy oak, soft and elegant though with fresh length, light tannins and attractive fruit. 89
Domaine Serrelongue
2003 Extrait de Passion (Mourvèdre Grenache) - maturing raisin fruit and wild herbs, the oak's now melted into it better; oily textured tannins, perhaps won't last much longer. 87
2004 Saveur de Vigne CdRV - nice ripe peppery fruit with choco oak backdrop, firm rounded tannins, good weight and style despite slightly too much wood; promising nevertheless. 89
2005 Syrah cask sample - appealing fresh spicy black cherry aromas with cinnamon oak edges, nice pure Syrah peppery 'medicinal' style with firm fresh finish. 90+
Domaine Rivaton
2004 Gribouille Latour de France CdRV - (2nd bottle; the one in the blind tasting was bottled too soon and suffered from reductive taint) nice smoky tar and leather tones, rich and ripe v firm and tight, attractive style. 90
2005 Latour de France CdRV ("probably": cask sample) - smoky leather tinged with black cherries, rustic and lush with solid yet elegant finish. 90
Domaine les Tourdelles
2004 Granit Vin de Pays (Carignan) - lovely ripe liquorice fruit, soft and elegant finishing with a little dry & fresh tannin/acidity. 87
2004 Cuvée Pierre Damien CdRV (Syrah Grenache Carignan) - light cedar background notes, firm mouth-feel yet shows subtle fruit too, closes up a bit but should be good. 87-89
Domaine des Schistes
2003 Les Terrasses CdRV (Carignan Grenache Syrah) - herbal aromas lead to a luscious peppery black fruit palate, solid and powerful with oak undertones; but it's the dark fruit and structured tannins that stay with you. 90
2003 La Coumeille CdRV - tobacco leaf, spice and scented oak underlined with maturing complex notes; firm and commanding, again showing concentrated blackberry, tobacco and olive flavours. Wow. 92-94
Domaine Duran
2004 Dom du Vieux Cépage CdRV (Grenache Carignan Syrah) - appealing cherry fruit intensity v coating of tannins and a touch of wood, bite and grip v power of fruit and alcohol (a bit much at 15%). 87-88
2005 barrel samples - Syrah Grenache: rich fruit v high alcohol and firm tannins, very spicy with fresh bite and more elegance than the 2004. Carignan Grenache: more liquorice and black cherry/olive than the first one, firm and dry with similar freshness and power. Should blend up to a 90+ wine.
Domaine Terre Rousse
2004 CdRV (Grenache Carignan Syrah Mourvèdre) - smoky and intense, a little oxidised but not too much, spicy tobacco and liquorice fruit set against firm fresh finish. 87
2005 CdRV (before going into barrique) - delicious wild herbal black cherry fruit, firm dry structure and power v sexy fruit and length. Does it need oak? 89-91
Domaine de la Balmière
2005 Muscat sec - very lively mineral style with crisp citrus fruit v lightly rounded finish. 87
2005 Côtes du Roussillon (CdR) rosé - floral white peach and redcurrant fruit, attractive dry finish and length. 87
2005 Latour de France CdRV (1/4 each of Grenache Carignan Syrah Mourvèdre) - lovely peppery ripe black fruits and olive, firm dry mouth-feel with generous rounded texture. Promising. 88-90
Domaine de la Pertuisane
2004 Le Nain Violet (Grenache Carignan Syrah) - closed up and difficult to taste as it had just been bottled: firm yet elegant and long with attractive underlying fruit and well handled wood texture. 88-90
2004 La Pertuisane (90% Grenache, Carignan) - similar story to above: pretty oaky at the moment with fleshy underlying fruit, very concentrated and powerful with firm grip and oak coating. However, it is balanced despite all this and 15% alc, thanks to its subtle mineral freshness and that lovely dark fruit. Needs time. 90-92These wines are available in London from Planet of the Grapes on New Oxford Street, priced from £15 to £40.
Mas Karolina
2004 CdRV (Grenache Syrah Carignan) - smoky and sweet-scented, nice ripe black fruit, concentrated and powerful enough to soak up the oak, dry grip v sweet coating; brawny (15%) but brainy too. 89-90
Maury Vin Doux Naturel (VDN) - luscious black cherry and liquorice, opulent and sweet balanced by lively bite of alcohol and tannins; try with a mature hard cheese such as Gruyere. 90-92
2004 CdRV (Grenache Syrah Carignan) - smoky and sweet-scented, nice ripe black fruit, concentrated and powerful enough to soak up the oak, dry grip v sweet coating; brawny (15%) but brainy too. 89-90
Maury Vin Doux Naturel (VDN) - luscious black cherry and liquorice, opulent and sweet balanced by lively bite of alcohol and tannins; try with a mature hard cheese such as Gruyere. 90-92
Vignerons de Caramany
2004 CdRV - a bit cardboardy on the nose but this was a vat sample, elegant layered fruit with subtle tannins and fresh bite. 85-87
Domaine Jouret et Fils
2004 Cuvée les 3 Soeurs CdRV - red pepper and spicy black live aromas, 'sweet' v floral; stiff and fresh mouth-feel with interesting wild ripe side. 87
2004 Cuvée les 3 Soeurs CdRV - red pepper and spicy black live aromas, 'sweet' v floral; stiff and fresh mouth-feel with interesting wild ripe side. 87
Mas de Lavail
2004 la Désirade CdRV - ripe 'tar' notes lead to an oaky palate, rounded and full; closes up firmly with slight bitterness, again too young to tell. 89+
2004 Tradition CdRV - subtle perfumed fruit showing damsons with light oak, perhaps a little 'burnt' in style yet has good power and black fruit centre. 87-89
2004 la Désirade CdRV - ripe 'tar' notes lead to an oaky palate, rounded and full; closes up firmly with slight bitterness, again too young to tell. 89+
2004 Tradition CdRV - subtle perfumed fruit showing damsons with light oak, perhaps a little 'burnt' in style yet has good power and black fruit centre. 87-89
Clos de l'Oum
2004 Numéro Uno CdRV - the nose is a bit 'reductive', moving on to a concentrated firm palate set against blackberry/olive fruit; rather closed up and awkward but could develop nicely. 87-89+
Domaine de la Fou
2004 Ricochet CdRV - alluring cassis and black cherry fruit, fine and soft v fresh and firm, stylish length. 87-89
2004 la Clue (Cinsault Grenache) - closed nose to start, cinnamon spice and raisin fruit on the palate, quite big and firm yet nice ripe depth of fruit too. 87
2004 Ricochet CdRV - alluring cassis and black cherry fruit, fine and soft v fresh and firm, stylish length. 87-89
2004 la Clue (Cinsault Grenache) - closed nose to start, cinnamon spice and raisin fruit on the palate, quite big and firm yet nice ripe depth of fruit too. 87
Les Clos Perdus
L'Extreme Vin de table - wild rustic notes surrounded by rich black cherry, attractive mouth-feel with earthy black olive undertones, grippy and powerful with lively core. 87-89
Mas des Frèdes
2004 Grenache Noir, vin de pays Côtes Catalanes - attractive floral cherry and liquorice, elegant fruit v a tad of dry tannin, nice easy drinking style. 85-87
2004 Grenache Noir, vin de pays Côtes Catalanes - attractive floral cherry and liquorice, elegant fruit v a tad of dry tannin, nice easy drinking style. 85-87
30 Mar 2006
Gîtes de France and Languedoc 'Escapades Vigneronnes’
Gîtes de France and Languedoc producers have launched a new wine tourism partnership packaged as ‘Le coffret Escapades Vigneronnes’. A smart boxed kit containing a glossy guide and CD will be sold on-line and in book shops and wine merchants throughout the region for 19€. The guide includes details of each gîte property located on participating wine estates in the Hérault département, as well as information on the area’s vineyards, seasons and tourist attractions. The wine trail stretches from east and north of Montpellier across to St-Chinian, Minervois and Narbonne. The CD offers tips on tasting, grape varieties and winemaking styles. “We wanted to make it educational rather than technical and try not to be too highbrow or trade focused,” Dominique Dupeyroux explained, director of Gîtes de France Hérault. “It’s aimed at different levels of wine enthusiast. We can go further in the next edition, and an English language version is a possibility if we can find a suitable publishing partner.” The guide also gives suggestions with prices for two and three day tailor-made wine and food tours including accommodation and itinerary, which can be booked on-line and offered as a present. More information is available at www.sejour-en-vignoble.fr
March 2006. A version also appeared in Decanter magazine.
March 2006. A version also appeared in Decanter magazine.
27 Mar 2006
Chimpanzés et bonobos…
Chimpanzés et bonobos…
En France, l'évolution de la société est-elle possible sans violence, sans révolution ? Chez nous des mots ont perdu leur sens : concertation, écoute, négociation, compromis, ouverture, non-violence… D’autres sont menacés : démocratie, modernisation, progrés social…
Pourquoi se mêler de ce débat ? Parce qu’il y a des points communs entre les manifestations étudiantes, syndicales et les manifestations vigneronnes. D’abord leur violence inutile : pourquoi dégrader La Sorbonne quand on est étudiant ? Pourquoi détruire du vin et des chais quand on est vigneron ?
Ensuite, abrités derrière le paravent de « l’exception française » nous ne voyons pas que le monde avance, mais sans nous !
Dans les forêts équatoriales, les chimpanzés querelleurs et agressifs sont en régression, les bonobos pacifiques et positifs seraient à nouveau en expansion…
Taken from E-lettre Vitisphere.com 27th March 2006.
En France, l'évolution de la société est-elle possible sans violence, sans révolution ? Chez nous des mots ont perdu leur sens : concertation, écoute, négociation, compromis, ouverture, non-violence… D’autres sont menacés : démocratie, modernisation, progrés social…
Pourquoi se mêler de ce débat ? Parce qu’il y a des points communs entre les manifestations étudiantes, syndicales et les manifestations vigneronnes. D’abord leur violence inutile : pourquoi dégrader La Sorbonne quand on est étudiant ? Pourquoi détruire du vin et des chais quand on est vigneron ?
Ensuite, abrités derrière le paravent de « l’exception française » nous ne voyons pas que le monde avance, mais sans nous !
Dans les forêts équatoriales, les chimpanzés querelleurs et agressifs sont en régression, les bonobos pacifiques et positifs seraient à nouveau en expansion…
Taken from E-lettre Vitisphere.com 27th March 2006.
My translation:
"Can we change society in France without violence or revolution? Words have lost their meaning round our way: dialogue, listening, negotiation, compromise, opening up, non-violence... Others are under threat: democracy, modernisation, social progress...
Why get involved in this debate? Because the student and union demonstrations have something in common with the winegrowers' demos. First of all their pointless violence: why deface the Sorbonne when you're a student? Why destroy wine and cellars when you're a winegrower? (news piece in French on sabotage at the Val d'Orbieu group.) Secondly, shielded by 'the French Exception', we can't see the world is moving on, but without us!
In the equatorial rainforests, antagonistic and aggressive chimps are on the way out, peaceful and constructive bonobos (couldn't find that in the dictionary but must be a kind of ape!) will soon be on the up..."
Why get involved in this debate? Because the student and union demonstrations have something in common with the winegrowers' demos. First of all their pointless violence: why deface the Sorbonne when you're a student? Why destroy wine and cellars when you're a winegrower? (news piece in French on sabotage at the Val d'Orbieu group.) Secondly, shielded by 'the French Exception', we can't see the world is moving on, but without us!
In the equatorial rainforests, antagonistic and aggressive chimps are on the way out, peaceful and constructive bonobos (couldn't find that in the dictionary but must be a kind of ape!) will soon be on the up..."
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