Richard Mark James' other wine & travel blog

Buy my special PDF reports for just £2.50/£3: Champagnes de Vignerons, Languedoc 2015, Cahors, St-Chinian, Languedoc 2014, Chablis, Alsace. Follow those links - pay by card with PayPal (no account required).

30 Apr 2008

Roussillon: Vignerons Catalans

Purists might well be purposefully tutting, while wondering why I’ve included possibly the largest producer in the Roussillon - it’s between them and the Rivesaltes/Salses cum Arnaud de Villeneuve wine factory, I think. Well, their huge winery certainly isn’t pretty to visit, sitting as it does on an industrial estate on the way into Perpignan; but their wines, and the people behind them, do merit a mention on a populist level. In addition to various bottles bought in local supermarkets and restaurants over the years, my first contact with ‘the people’ was when I tried a number of wines from their broad portfolio over dinner at the Villa Duflot restaurant in Perpignan back in 2006, where the Catalans' then export manager François Trouquet talked about their hopes and dreams.
The funky Fruité Catalan trio, launched in summer 2005 (read on for more info), has apparently sold over 1 million bottles to Sept. 06 and they'd like to exceed 10 million by 2010. Ambitious indeed: François described it as "a mission for the Roussillon" in true Blues Brothers style, even if it wasn't dark and he wasn't wearing sunglasses... To get there, they've ploughed in €4 million in the first year with at least another €5 mill to come.
FC is a "regional project" (forgive the marketing speak) to "help growers here in the Roussillon." There are 60 estates and 4 co-ops involved, who submit samples of the specified wines and then obviously bulk wine for the final blends if selected. As for the wines themselves, I found the 2005s better than the 2004s launched originally: the rosé is nice enough, fresh and crisp with light raspberry fruit; the white has benefited from more Muscat in it and red tastes a bit gutsier. VC are talking to UK supermarket buyers with a view to getting wide distribution at £4.99 or £3.99 on promotion. So we'll see. Click here to read a more detailed business article ("Roussillon's Identity Parade") published in 2007 including an interview with their Marketing Director, Christophe Palmowski.
Those cunning Catalans also since introduced (autumn 2006) two flowery butterfly, 2006 Primeur wines into French supermarkets (€2.95): see below and under "wines of the moment" (on WineWriting blog) too for other reviews from the stable.


And this is what I said originally about Fruité Catalan (posted 14/6/05): "In contrast, is this the new face of French wine? I stumbled across these wines in a supermarket outside Montpellier - couldn't miss them really, piled high with distinctive yet simple butterfly motif packaging and bright pinky purple capsules and plastic corks. The 'brand' sells here for €2.99, and the producer (Vignerons Catalans near Perpignan) is obviously doing some serious promotion, offering '3 for 2' backed up by billboard advertising. Perhaps this is the way to attract younger people to wine drinking (moderately, of course, given the increasingly draconian laws in France) - uncomplicated presentation and easy wine styles. I think they should make them a bit more interesting - the wines are perfectly OK, just lack a bit of substance..." Notes on the debut launch vintages:
2004 Fruité Catalan red Côtes du Roussillon (12.5%) - Easy drinking soft fruity, Beaujolais-esque style, straightforward summer BBQ red with broad appeal. 80
2004 Fruité Catalan rosé Côtes du Roussillon (12.5%) - Quite weighty restrained strawberry and raspberry fruit, juicy mouthful with dry-ish finish. Probably the best of the three, try with Roquefort risotto. 83
2004 Fruité Catalan white Vin de Pays Catalan (12.5%) - Fresh and zingy, quaffing citrus style, needs a bit more flavour but it's OK as a simple apéro. 80


Here's my pick of the ones we tasted on 4/9/06 in the restaurant mentioned earlier in addition to Fruité Catalan:
1995 Rivesaltes Ambré (16%) - strange choice to start with perhaps (strong and sweet), but this was good with the foie gras (right-off but irresistible)! Toffee and walnut flavours with smoky complex aromas and finish.
2003 Château Cuchous Côtes du Roussillon Villages (13.5%) - mint and spice notes mix with black cherry and earthy liquorice, soft yet powerful palate with rounded fruit and tannins; drinking now. 87+
2001 Caramany Haute Coutume 'Gneiss des Capitelles,' Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Syrah Carignan Grenache  13%) - smoky mint with light red pepper tones, 'cheesy' and intricate; soft and mature yet still has nice dry grip too, making it good with the lamb dish.
2000 Caramany 'Schistes de Trémoine'  Côtes du Roussillon Villages - a little richer and more rustic than above, more developed with soft shorter finish. 87


The 'brand extension' (to use the marketing babble) continues - tasted summer 2007:
2006 Terroir Catalan rosé Côtes du Roussillon (Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre  13%) - nice lively red fruits with light grip even, quite full and satisfying. Good but dear at €4.99. 85
2005 Caramany Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Syrah Carignan Grenache, 13%) - deep purple ("smoke on the water...") black colour, very fruity with white pepper and earthy notes, very light oak backdrop; fairly rich and ripe black & red fruits, firm tight & elegant finish. 87+
2006 Primeur Catalan Syrah-Merlot, vin de pays d'Oc (13%) - pleasant enough, Beaujolais nouveau type - but with more oomph - fruity quaffer; not really my taste, I prefer the white below. 75-80
2006 Primeur Catalan Muscat-Viognier, vin de pays d'Oc (13%) - the latest funkily packaged release from those cunning Vignerons Catalans is very floral and zingy with nice grapey apricot notes, crisp and refreshing; drink it cold "juste comme ça," as the French might say... 83-85


And an April 2008 "wine of the moment":
2007 Rasiguères Côtes du Roussillon Villages (14%) - full-on chunky black fruit and tannins, lively and fruity modern-styled red with liquorice edges, quite serious backbone and dry grip even so. €3.95 87



UPDATE November 2011
Taken from this post on new M&S southern French reds:
2008 Cuvée Extrême Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Syrah, Grenache, Carignan; 14.5%): spicy vs maturing nose, quite rich and big with a touch of 'old wood' grain, powerful and grippy vs sweet / spicy fruit finishing with meaty edges too. That 14.5 alc. is a little hot but this has plenty of flavour to counter it! £9.99 150 stores.


1870 avenue Julien Panchot, BP 29000, 66962 Perpignan Cedex 9. Tel: 04 68 85 04 51, www.vigneronscatalans.com


21 Apr 2008

Languedoc: Domaine de Martinolles, Limoux

UPDATED May 2012 - see link below.

Domaine de Martinolles

Located roughly between Limoux and Carcassonne outside the village of Saint-Hilaire (the abbey here is said to be where the Blanquette traditional method sparkling style was first conceived), you'll eventually find the Vergnes family's cellar, tasting room and holiday gite at the end of a twisty track off the 'main' road (you'll see a kind of embossed stone obelisk marking the entrance). Once you've passed through vineyards and olive trees, all you have to do is manoeuvre your car around a couple of snoozing dogs blocking the drive, after they've checked you out and given an approving 'woof'. Guardians of a fairly classic range, if you like, especially their Crémant (the Vergnes' obviously, although perhaps one of the hounds is a part-time winemaker).
I digress: these wines were tasted in April 2008 at the estate:

2006 Limoux blanc 'vieilles vignes' (Chardonnay 13.5%) - quite big, fat and toasty yet also has fairly rich rounded fruit and refreshing finish. €7.70 87
2005 Limoux rouge (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Syrah) - perfumed 'garrigue' tones with spicy plum and black cherry fruit, moves on to a bitter chocolate v liquorice palate with fresh but rounded tannins. €5.40 87
2006 Blanquette de Limoux (mostly Mauzac 12.5%) - shows a nice mix of fresh and crisp v biscuity and more exotic fruit; finishing with elegant dry length. €6.20 87
2005 Crémant de Limoux (Chardonnay Chenin blanc Pinot Noir 12.5%) - more generous and classier displaying fine oily toasty fruit v crisp, stylish and long finish. €8 90+

LATEST MARTINOLLES VINTAGES REVIEWED HERE (Limoux fizz report 2012).

11250 Saint-Hilaire. Tel: 04 68 69 41 93, www.martinolles.com.

20 Apr 2008

Languedoc: Château Guilhem, Malepère

Château Guilhem

Son Bertrand Gourdou-Guilhem (pictured) has now taken over at the winemaking helm at this well-known property found on the southern side of the Malepère appellation, on the edge of the quiet village of Malviès (southwest of Carcassonne, northwest of Limoux). The old family château, built in Revolutionary times, is charming and timeless although a little flaking perhaps. Future renovation plans - the recent focus has been on upgrading vineyards and cellar - could include converting it into up-market 'chambres d’hôte' offering rooms and meals. The Malepère region itself isn't very well known and a bit of a final frontier ("to boldly go" etc...) for wine in the Languedoc, stretching out on its western side towards Castelnaudary almost. Growers were crowned with full AOC status in 2007, if that really makes any difference, and like Cabardès they've decided to base their wines on a mixture of Med/Southwest/Bordeaux varieties, although leaning more towards the latter as Merlot is central to their red wines. Guilhem is making some good reds crafted from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec; a lively dry rosé as well as decent Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. As part of a charity event, every year one parcel is left unharvested until October, after the other 30-odd hectares have been gleaned, to celebrate the Fete des Vendanges when customers and friends are invited to pick the remaining grapes, taste fermenting musts, play games, stick a couple of Toulouse sausages on the Barbie and contribute to local good causes, of course. I sampled these wines at Vinisud Montpellier, February 2008, and/or in situ when I visited in April 2008:
2007 Cuvée Tradition rosé, Malepère (Cabernet Franc Merlot 13%) - lovely zingy red fruits and roses style, crisp intense and elegant in a Provence kinda way. 87
2006 Cuvée Tradition rouge, Malepère (Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon) - nice mix of sweet and sour fruit with lightly rustic edges, creamy cooked cassis v tart tangy plum with lingering spicy black cherry on the finish. 85-87
2007 Cuvée Tradition rouge, Malepère (Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon) - more fragrant and spicier than the 06, showing good depth of black cherry and plum with tarter edges and grip on the finish. UK retail approx £7.99. 87+
2006 Cuvée Prestige, Malepère (Merlot Cabernets Malbec) - richer nose and palate, not too toasty on the coconut oak front; good depth of fruit and textured tannins, interesting mixed style towards Bordeaux but with more power and/or sunshine. 87-89
2006 Clos du Blason (Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon) - one selected parcel fermented in barrel: showing quite a lot of new oak at the moment but it has rich fruit as well; not sure, will have to taste it again later down the line.
2006 Grande Cuvée (Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon) - chunky fruit and tannins again with those spicy coconut flavours and texture but not too much; rounded, richer and more powerful yet has nice bite and a touch of elegance in the end. 89-91
2007 Sauvignon Blanc, vin de pays d'Oc - attractive fresh citrus tones, crisp yet soft mouth-feel with elegant zesty finish. 85
2007 Chardonnay, vin de pays d'Oc - juicy pear and white peach style, light yeast lees notes and a touch of cream adding extra dimension, then fresh and zippy. 87
Guilhem's UK importer/agent is Stevens Garnier, Oxford.

Le Château, 11300 Malviès. Tel: 04 68 31 14 41,contact@chateauguilhem.com or bgourdou@chateauguilhem.comwww.chateauguilhem.com.


17 Apr 2008

Languedoc: Domaine Escourrou / La Régalona, Cabardès

Domaine Escourrou

Guy and Arnaud Escourrou work as a father and son, men-of-nature team and are certainly doing their bit to put Cabardès on the serious red wine map. Semi-retired Guy works (and occasionally talks to according to their website) the vines and soil, while Arnaud, international winemaker, concentrates on his 'baby' (part French/part South American: read on), their excellent flagship wine called ‘La Régalona’, which I gather is produced lovingly but also rather ruthlessly, in terms of the fussy selection, pruning, fruit thinning etc. that I'm told is involved. This Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and occasionally Merlot blend shows great depth of fruit, structure and ageing potential. Apparently the wine has created quite a stir in the region and further afield in Bordeaux, where a leading critic praised it very highly (allegedly thinking it was Pomerol!) and Jean-Luc Thunevin is a bit of a fan too. Arnaud has also launched a Régalona project in Chile using the same quality philosophy and varieties. So if you want to taste the wines at their place, an appointment is advisable as he spends several months away from their unassuming home in the sleepy village of Ventenac, although dad is an equally enthusiastic host. I was lucky enough to try several vintages in situ when I visited in April 2008.


2004 
Régalona - light hint of coconut oak layered with dark cherry/cassis, lovely depth of fruit showing 'sweet' v bitter twist; powerful with grippy tannins balanced by nice vibrant spicy fruit, needs 2-3 years to round out a little. 90+
2003 Régalona - richer riper and more open with a touch of coconut, again has that lush black
 cherry fruit with wild herbs too filled out with lots of liquorice; solid texture v concentrated fruit, 'sweet' v savoury development, forceful finish but actually well-balanced in its own way. 92+
2002 
Régalona - complex and savoury with liquorice maturity and light cedary touches, very grippy and chunky smoothed out by developing sweet and savoury fruit. 89+
2005 Régalona (about to be bottled) - the oak's more obvious but it has lots of juicy berry
 and raisin flavours, chewy tannins and lush concentrated attractive fruit core, finishing quite elegantly actually. 90+
2006 
Cabernet Sauvignon (from barrique, destined to part of the blend) - lovely dark cassis with tobacco and light spicy oak, rich texture v grainy tannins, tart cassis fruit v generous mouth-feel. Promising. 92
2006 Syrah / Merlot (ditto) - closed up to start with, moving on to dark cherry and plum pudding with soy sauce tones; very concentrated showing depth, style, well-handled oak
 and nice fine-grained tannins. Should add a pretty special dimension to the blend. 94
2007 (random cask) - a touch of malolactic fermentation notes but this shows lots of chunky black cherry and berry fruit, fine fresh tannins, balance of power v elegance and pure concentration too. Very promising.



Latest on Cabardès here (report June 2012).

6 Avenue de la Viale, 11610 Ventenac-Cabardès. Tel: 04 68 24 92 30 / mobile06 17 40 54 31, arnaud.cabardes@wanadoo.fr or contact@laregalona.frwww.regalona.fr.


13 Apr 2008

Languedoc: Domaine Bégude, Limoux

English couple James and Catherine Kinglake put their money into a dream in 2003 and bought this charming property, which lies up above (at 400m altitude) the village of Cépie to the north of Limoux (south of Carcassonne) and offers spectacular views in all directions. Describing his philosophy as "turbocharged lutte raisonnée" meaning as environmentally friendly as possible without being full-blown organic, James and his winemaker are making some handsome Chardonnays – oaked-aged, full-bodied AOC Limoux styles and lively unoaked Vins de Pays – surprising Chenin Blanc and an attractive rosé from the small amount of Pinot Noir they have planted (see 2008 update below). They can accommodate up to 30 people for a vineyard tour, tasting and lunch in their converted barn function room, if booked in advance. Bégude's wines are available in the US and UK as well as elsewhere in northern Europe and the Far East. Email them for details (at the bottom).

The following 2005s were unfinished wines tasted from vat in the cellar December 2005:
2005 Sauvignon Blanc - attractive citrus v mineral style, soft ripe gooseberry fruit then leaner crisp finish.
2005 Chardonnay (will be blended with barrel fermented Chardonnay) - nice clean white peach fruit and balance of weight v elegance, again finishing with crisp length.
2005 Chardonnay (will be vin de pays) - more mineral and yeast leesy style, tighter longer finish.
2005 Chardonnay - livelier and richer although a touch bitter on the finish at the moment.
2005 Chenin Blanc (will blend 85-15 with Chardy) - lovely melon v buttery fruit, intense and fresh v fat yet fine.
2005 Pinot Noir rosé - elegant rose petal aromas build to creamy weightier mouthful.
2004 Chardonnay vin de pays - creamy raisin fruit showing juicy fatness v greener crisper edges; very attractive at €5.
2004 Chardonnay-Chenin Blanc - again creamy to start followed by leaner fresher finish. £5.99 in the UK.
2004 Chardonnay Limoux - shows light toasty oak and juicy fat fruit then a more elegant finish, well balanced.

"The Corbières in Autumn" from www.domainebegude.comBégude update April 2008: A long-overdue return visit revealed that, with the successful 2006 vintage the Kinglakes have launched an experimental red batch made from late-picked Pinot Noir called L’Esprit - they left one row of the most promising Pinot until the end of September - and a limited barrel-selection Chardonnay called L’Etoile ("about one third as much as the classic," James told me, after several critical tastings of all the Chardy in barrel). He's also toying with the idea of making a sparkling Limoux: watch this space. I tasted these including a few potentially exciting 2007s from tank and cask:
2007 Sauvignon Blanc - lovely piercing citrus and pea notes with zingy grapefruit, pure and zesty palate with crisp yet relatively soft finish. €6 at the winery, and also available in Loch Fyne restaurants across the UK. 87
2007 Bel Ange (Chardy + touch of Chenin Blanc) - nice peachy v citrus style, rounded mouth-feel with weight v freshness; very drinkable now actually. £6.49 Majestic. 87+
2007 (different batch) - a bit fatter, oilier and honeyed with again crisp graceful finish; less structured perhaps. 87
2007 Pinot Noir rosé - zesty nose with light red fruits, elegant and fresh with subtle depth of fruit. €6 87
2006 Limoux blanc 'classic' - judicious toasty oak adds texture as do the lightly creamy yeast-lees characters, shows nice fruit v acid balance. €8 89
2007 Chardy from a new demi-muid (600 litre barrel) - lively fruit v subtle oak coating, very promising.
2007 Chardy from a barrique - more yeast-lees presence with lovely fruit, texture and crisp length; stylish.
2006 L’Etoile de Bégude, Limoux (selected Chardy, 13.5%) - closed nose showing delicate toasted coconut oak, creamy oily and peachy mouth-feel with nice yeast-lees depth, weight then crisp balanced length, tight structure and purity too. Opened up over the next day or so. €15 90-92
2006 L’Esprit de Bégude, Vin de pays d'Oc (Pinot Noir 14.5%) - unusual sort of New Zealand meets Sonoma PN style: a layer of oak adds a bitter chocolate texture to its smoky savoury characters edged with attractive cherry fruit; pretty big and bold yet there's freshness too. Should open up with a few months in bottle, it's a bit awkward at the moment. 89-90?

Saint-Martin-de-Villereglan, 11300 Cépie. Tel: 06 86 05 73 74 (mobile), fax: 04 68 69 20 41; james@domainebegude.com, http://www.domainebegude.com/.

9 Apr 2008

Languedoc: Domaine de Fourn / Robert, Limoux

UPDATED 2012 - see link at bottom.

This 40-hectare estate, owned by the Robert family and set adrift in the hills not far from the village of Pieusse, is efficiently signposted; otherwise you really would be on a "magical mystery tour" to find it (maybe that's the idea, hush hush and all that). Ardent defenders of the region's distinctive fizz, like Domaine Martinolles below, this is a good place to see how sparkling Limoux is made in the different styles; particularly as the Roberts still use traditional racks to slowly invert the bottles to remove the sediment. This process is mostly automated nowadays, as it is in Champagne and understandably as it's very labour-intensive, where the wines are stored in 'giro-palettes' which jolt every now and then while gradually tilting the bottles. Blanquette is made mainly from the Mauzac variety (90+%) with some Chardonnay and Chenin blanc, depending on producer preference, and can be Brut (quite dry with about 8-10 grams per litre residual sugar (RS) v towards high acidity) or Demi-Sec (actually quite sweet). Crémant is always dry (similar Brut spec. to above) and often based on Chardy and Chenin with some Pinot Noir. Both styles undergo second fermentation in bottle and must be aged on the fine yeast-lees for at least nine months before being disgorged: the best, and certainly the most interesting wines are aged for much longer. The Méthode Ancestrale style is a bit of a local curiosity ("for local people" perhaps) and can be quite attractive: 100% Mauzac, sweet (50+ g/l RS) and refreshingly light in alcohol (around 7%) making them nice with fruit desserts, for example.

I tasted these Robert wines in situ in April 2008:
2004 Blanquette de Limoux Brut Carte Noire (90% Mauzac + Chardy Chenin,12% alc.) - quite fine and appley with light biscuity development and ageing character; crisp elegant and quite dry v subtle chocolate flavours too. 85-87
2001 Crémant de Limoux Brut (60% Mauzac + Chardy Chenin, 12.5%) - richer nuttier aromas, more cakey flavours v quite dry & elegant acidity; nice length and style showing age v finesse. 89
2004 Crémant de Limoux Brut (50% Chardy 30% Chenin Pinot Mauzac, 12%) - tighter and fresher with delicate toasted biscuit flavours, again attractively fine & crisp length. 88-90
2006 Blanquette Ancestrale Doux (100% Mauzac, 7%) - pleasant, buoyant and sweet balanced by nice acidity; try with light desserts. 85

LATEST VINTAGES REVIEWED HERE (Sparkling Limoux report May 2012).

11300 Pieusse. Tel: 04 68 31 15 03, www.robert-blanquette.com.

2 Apr 2008

Roussillon: Present and Future, a mini-thesis: appendices p2


Click here for the whole dissertation and bibliography (goes to 'more wine words').

Appendices part 2: production & sales data, questionnaires, list of participating estates

SECTION 3: RESULTS AND ANALYSIS

(A) PRODUCTION AND SALES TABLES

(i) Production 2005-2006
2006 harvest: VDN (*1)
Wine
Surface ha
Total vol hl
Co-ops hl
Banyuls white
113
2836
2542
Banyuls red
864
21240
16944
Banyuls GC*
159
3605
3570
Muscat Rives*
4871
105440
78276
Grand Rouss*
296
7190
3384
Maury white
38
971
782
Maury red
232
5404
3226
Rives red*
2204
49996
43754
Rives amb*
2667
58801
50401
Total VDN
11444
255483
202879
2005 harvest: VDN (*1)
Wine
Surface ha
Total vol hl
Co-ops hl
Banyuls white
95
2652
2285
Banyuls red
877
18365
13826
Banyuls GC*
222
4170
4112
Muscat Rives*
5123
106408
75731
Grand Rouss*
1697
43920
37407
Maury white
70
1389
1199
Maury red
491
10666
7850
Rives red*
891
19204
13651
Rives amb*
2562
54844
43181
Total VDN
12028
261618
199242
*Banyuls Grand Cru; Muscat de Rivesaltes; Grand Roussillon red, white and rosé combined; Rivesaltes red includes Tuilé and Grenat styles; Rivesaltes ambré. Volume figures are in hectolitres of finished wine i.e. include fortifying alcohol.
2006: Côtes du Roussillon and Villages (*1)
Wine
Surface ha
Total vol hl
Co-ops hl
CDR white
142
4345
2556
CDR red
3022
111119
81047
CDR rosé
2419
94983
81135
CDR Villages
1493
43871
25495
CDRV Cara*
150
5349
5349
CDRV Latour*
99
3719
3434
CDRV Lesqu*
22
840
833
CDRV Taut*
316
11108
7818
CDR Aspres
32
1085
359
Collioure wh
76
2556
1967
Collioure red
401
13096
11075
Collioure rosé
119
3874
2922
Total CDR/V
8291
295945
223990
2005: Côtes du Roussillon and Villages (*1)
Wine
Surface ha
Total vol hl
Co-ops hl
CDR white
183
5156
2836
CDR red
2837
100365
70980
CDR rosé
2949
114360
92773
CDR Villages
1637
47446
28619
CDRV Cara*
171
5620
5396
CDRV Latour*
167
4974
2971
CDRV Lesqu*
28
823
680
CDRV Taut*
289
11270
8179
CDR Aspres
59
1404
621
Collioure wh
75
2476
1969
Collioure red
389
12230
9547
Collioure rosé
116
3941
2318
Total CDR/V
8900
310065
226889
*Côtes du Roussillon Villages + four named village subzones = Caramany, Latour-de-France, Lesquerde and Tautavel.
2006: Vins de pays, vins de table & other (*1)
Wine
Surface ha
Volume hl
Co-ops hl
Surplus* hl
VDP white*
1598
77944
60838
40914
VDP red*
5112
249625
179968
13170
VDP rosé*
1642
84074
63795
12466
Total VDP*
8352
411643
304601
66550





VDT white
142
6640
3496
2572
VDT red
638
38708
23627
3216
VDT rosé
120
7917
4709
16
Total VDT
900
53265
31832
5804





Mistelle/liqu*
49
5613
5613

Must/juice*

12345
10480

Vines no prod*
451








Total 2006
29,487 ha
1,034,294 hl
779,395 hl
72,354 hl
2005: Vins de pays, vins de table & other (*1)
Wine
Surface ha
Volume hl
Co-ops hl
Surplus* hl
VDP white*
1756
87879
68307
40684
VDP red*
6298
303175
214855
9845
VDP rosé*
1908
104060
81685
15258
Total VDP*
9962
495114
364847
65787





VDT white
190
7219
3834
6590
VDT red
989
55556
30052
6610
VDT rosé
162
8452
4902
4188
Total VDT
1341
71227
38788
17388





Mistelle/liqu*
3
3672
3656

Must/juice*

15841
12174

Vines no prod*
772








Total 2005
33,006 ha
1,157,537 hl
845,596 hl
83,175 hl
*VDP = sum of vin de pays Côtes Catalanes, d’Oc, des PO and Côte Vermeille (in descending order). *Surplus excludes 38,500 hl of wine lees included in 05-06 CIVR figures for accounting purposes. *Mistelles / vins de liqueurs = other fortified or sweet wines. *Grapes, must, juice and concentrate. *Young vines not in production.

(ii) Vine plantings/removal by variety in 2005 (*12)

Variety
ha
04 v 05 %
Diff remove
v plant -/+
ha 04/05
Diff remove
v plant -/+
last 22 yrs
Grenache noir
7305
-1
-61
-567
Carignan
5978
-7
-373
-12877
Syrah
4819
6
+333
+4309
Mourvèdre
931
3
+53
+850
Merlot
749
1
+28
+665
Cabernet sauvignon
541
5
+47*
+654*
Lledoner pelut
289
-3


Cinsaut
113
-11


Cabernet franc
102
15
*
*
Chenanson
69
-3


Total red
20898
-1
-62*
-7970*
Muscat petits grains
3232
-2
-25
+1101
Macabeu
3118
-8
-207
-3287
Muscat d’Alexandrie
2671
-4
-72
+222
Grenache blanc
1920
-10
-241*
-6343*
Grenache gris
1408
-7
*
*
Chardonnay
553
-1
+4
+520
Vermentino
101
-1


Sauvignon
94
-4


Viognier
92
2


Tourbat (Malvoisie)
29
-12


Marsanne
27
4


Roussanne
33
27


Total white
13278
-6
-541*
-7731*
TOTAL
34175
-3
-603
-15701
Miscellaneous*
233
-7
*
*
*Plantings quoted as ‘Cabernet’ = Sauvignon/Franc combined. *Red varieties: include Alicante & Aramon (virtually all ripped up), 1 ha Tempranillo planted 04/05 and 9 ha Cinsaut removed. *White varieties: Grenache blanc/gris plant/remove figs amalgamated, 7 ha Roussanne planted. *Miscellaneous includes 83 ha of Carignan blanc, 10 ha pulled up.

(iii) Production v shipments 2001-2006 (*1)
VDN
*
Muscat Rive
Banyuls
Rive/GR/Maur
2001 volume hl
160,600
22623
176391
shipments hl
-137,040
-24622
-212372
surplus/deficit
23,560
-1999
-35981




2002 volume
157,079
24978
174649
shipments
-140,964
-24300
-205902
sur/def
16,115
678
-31253




2003 volume
138,342
25965
153069
shipments
-129,642
-23872
-194878
sur/def
8,700
2093
-41809




2004 volume
111,555
23668
134799
shipments
-125,491
-22675
-188435
sur/def
-13,936
993
-53636




2005 volume
106,408
25193
130024
shipments
-120,027
-15683
-163119
sur/def
-13,619
9510
-33095




2006 volume
108,798
27680
122241
shipments
-115,719
-21849
-167499
sur/def
-6,921
5831
-45258
*Muscat de Rivesaltes; Banyuls and Grand Cru; all other Rivesaltes styles, Grand Roussillon and Maury together. Figures are for the PO only (the Rivesaltes and GR AOCs extend into the Aude département).
Dry AOC wines
*
CDR W/R/R
CDR Village
Collioure
2001 volume hl
280658
100091
15129
shipments hl
-187279
-75288
-14804
surplus/deficit
93379
24803
325




2002 volume
200498
84206
16468
shipments
-196282
-80608
-14143
sur/def
4216
3598
2325




2003 volume
194864
79455
16505
shipments
-195625
-86989
-14911
sur/def
-761
-7534
1594




2004 volume
233144
72255
18804
shipments
-227006
-58476
-14715
sur/def
6138
13779
4089




2005 volume
221496
70103
18646
shipments
-205410
-56506
-8101
sur/def
16086
13597
10545




2006 volume
209346
65665
20352
shipments
-210685
-54351
-16144
sur/def
-1339
11314
4208
*Côtes du Roussillon white, red (incl. Aspres) and rosé together; all Côtes du Roussillon Villages red; Collioure white, red and rosé.

(iv) Shipments by channel France & export (*1)
AOC dry wines
Channel %
2001/02
2002/03
2003/04
2004/05
2005/06
Private customers
23
18
18
20
17
Convenience stores
3
2
3
2
2
Wine merchants
2
2
2
3
2
Restau/hotels
3
3
2
2
2
Discounters
28
25
30
33
36
Multiple grocers
10
9
8
11
14
Exports
31
41
37
29
27
Shipments hl
283548
315932
302439
276467
257110
AOC VDN
Channel %
2001/02
2002/03
2003/04
2004/05
2005/06
Private customers
10
10
10
10
10
Convenience stores
3
4
4
4
4
Wine merchants
2
2
2
2
2
Restau/hotels
1
1
1
1
1
Discounters
25
25
24
24
25
Multiple grocers
57
56
57
58
56
Exports
2
2
2
2
2
Shipments hl
395853
370777
359635
322806
329194

(v) Sales in France 2006 (Hyper/supermarkets & discounters *1)
VDN
Wine/region*
Value €
% change 05
Average price
Muscat Roussillon
70,409,214
-0.8
5.81
Muscat Rivesaltes
36,266,218
+0.3
5.35
VDN excl. Muscat
40,991,048
-4
3.47
Grand Roussillon
20,391,199
-0.7
2.61
Other Rivesaltes
16,433,395
-7.6
4.83
Maury
628,530
-8.7
8.16
Banyuls
3,420,850
-3.7
6.50
Muscat Frontignan
7,776,429
-2.6
7.90
Muscat B de V
4,524,152
-4.7
12.33
Muscat Samos
15,903,027
-1.2
5.12
Muscat St. J de M
506,085
+3.7
8.98
Dry wines: Languedoc-Roussillon v other
Wine/region*
Value €
% change 05
Average price
AOC Lang-Rouss
131,660,848
-2.5
3.16
VDP d’Oc
201,172,560
+9.6
2.43
Bordeaux
877,373,696
+0.7
5.31
Rhone
306,568,608
-2
3.61




AOC L-R white
8,809,860
-1.5
4.29
AOC Rouss white
353,513
-1.1
6.18
L-R rosé
16,840,716
+2.9
3.31
Roussillon rosé
3,222,145
+38
3.27
L-R red
106,010,272
-3.3
3.07
Roussillon red
9,787,703
+5.2
4.05
VDP PO
2,022,476
-19
2.01
*Total Languedoc-Roussillon all AOCs and colours; Vin de Pays d’Oc all styles; AOC Languedoc-Roussillon white, rosé and red compared to same colours all Roussillon AOCs; VDP PO = other vin de pays from Roussillon, all colours.

(vi) Exports
French wine exports 2006 by value (*13)
Region/type
‘000 €
% change
Total AOC wine:
2,927,963
+13.5
Alsace
103,541
+8.4
Bordeaux
1,271,962
+23.2
Burgundy
577,732
+8.1
Beaujolais
157,939
-4.1
Cotes du Rhone
255,670
+17.4
Languedoc-Roussillon
134,385
-2.6
Loire valley
204,041
+2.7
Vins de pays*
600,508
+1.4
Vins de table
348,236
-0.2
Total inc sparkling
6,159,837
+11.6
Exports 2006 by market and value (*13)
Country
‘000 €
% change
United Kingdom
1,304,588
+9.7
USA
1,020,904
+17.9
Germany
581,707
-0.7
Belgium
539,639
+2.5
Japan
396,536
+10.8
Netherlands
326,478
+3.2
Switzerland
264,958
+9.5
Canada
254,739
+20.8
Italy
277,594
+10.9
Singapore
155,593
+70

QUESTIONNAIRES

Q1 Roussillon winemaker survey
NB. My analysis (strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats) of the Roussillon wine industry will be based on “current challenges and reasons why, positive developments and future directions.”
Domaine and location:
Owner’s or manager’s name:
Production and sales
Surface area and varieties:
How many hectares at present?
Would you prefer more or less vineyard to be more profitable?
Are you planting / have you planted or removing / have removed a certain variety or varieties in favour of another, and why?
Generally, yields are low in the Roussillon: advantage or disadvantage?
Production costs, real estate prices:
Vineyard land is less expensive in the Roussillon? Price per ha?
And property prices compared to 5-10 years ago?
If you set up your domaine within the last five years, how long do you expect it to take for a return on investment?
Wine styles as a percentage and price of each (approx retail in €/£/$):
VDN of which Muscat or ambré or red styles
Red white rosé
Do you make a Muscat sec or plan to?
AOC / vin de pays
Bottles / BIB / bulk
Trends 2001-2006?
Channels as a percentage of turnover:
Direct
Multiple grocers / specialists
Independent merchants/wholesalers
On-trade
Export, and which markets?
Other
Trends 2001-2006?
Identity
Does the Roussillon have a distinct image for wine (and quality) among consumers?
And compared to the Languedoc or 'South of France' or Catalonia even?
In France (and still especially for VDNs?)             Abroad
(Also see below)
AOC
Generally speaking, do you think it’s still valid or are the rules too inflexible in terms of today’s market?
What about Côtes du Roussillon as a banner for the region?
Would it be better for the Roussillon to be part of ‘InterSud’ / South of France? Please comment further if you wish.
Do you believe it’s a good idea to develop 'cru' AOCs in the Roussillon – in terms of terroir, philosophy and economics – e.g. create more CDR Villages + village name such as Tautavel?
Or does this make it more complicated for the consumer?
(The Aspres: was the appellation properly thought out in your opinion? Image and price: is the wine enthusiast prepared to pay more for a CDR Les Aspres?)
Tourism
Could you estimate the percentage of your turnover, as a share of your direct sales, due to tourism?
Do you offer any wine tourism events, organised walks, winemaker dinners etc?
Are you a member of an organisation such as 'Tourisme de Terroir en Pyrenées Orientales’ or ‘Gîtes de France’? If so, does it bring in significant income?
If not, are you planning to invest in wine tourism, e.g. build a better reception/tasting area or shop, restore a farm building to offer accommodation?
Organic
Apart from the environmental and marketing advantages, is it really one of the Roussillon’s assets in particular?                   Is organic winegrowing easier here?
I understand that oidium is the most widespread disease – are small quantities of sulphur usually enough to treat it, or is it a very serious problem?

Q1b: the thirty estates
See list below with contact details.

Q2 Roussillon trade questionnaire
My analysis of "the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats for the Roussillon wine industry" will focus on "current challenges, positive developments and future directions." 
Identity - does the Roussillon have a distinct image for wine (and quality) for your customers and the American wine drinker in general? And compared to the Languedoc or south of France or Catalonia even?
Customers - who's buying these wines: specialist wine shops, restaurants, internet sales? What's the average price, retail and in a restaurant, or would be ideally if you imported any Roussillon wines?
What do you think their reds offer in terms of wine styles, quality, value and/or innovation? And theirrosés: does the US market represent a good opportunity?
Do you think the Cotes du Roussillon or CDR Villages appellation is important as a banner for the region? Or better to focus on, e.g. super-vins de pays varietals made from Grenache, Carignan, Syrah?
Is there a market for Vins Doux Naturels in the States? Given the amount of Muscat variety planted, is there any potential for Dry Muscat white wines?

Q3 Roussillon wine writers questionnaire
Identity - does the Roussillon have a distinct image for wine (and quality)? And compared to the Languedoc or south of France or Catalonia even? Please sum up what you consider to be the Roussillon's main strengths and weaknesses.
What do you think their reds offer in terms of wine styles, quality, value and/or innovation? And theirrosés: does the UK market represent a good opportunity for them?
Visibility - do you see more or less of these wines in wine shops or restaurants? Would you buy a bottle and how much would you be prepared to pay?
Do you think the Cotes du Roussillon or CDR Villages appellation is important as a banner for the region? Or is it better to focus on, e.g. super-vins de pays varietals based on Grenache, Carignan, Syrah?
Is there any following for Vins Doux Naturels sweet wines? Given the amount of the Muscat variety planted in the Roussillon, is there any potential for Dry Muscat? Does the style suit British tastes and is Muscat beginning to register interest as a varietal wine?

Q1b The 30 Estates Owner/manager Location Email Phone Website
Mas Alart BELMAS Frédéric Saleilles frederic.belmas@wanadoo.fr 04 68 50 51 89 www.mas-alart.fr
Domaine Calvet-Thunevin CALVET Jean-Roger and THUNEVIN Jean Luc Maury calvet.marie@wanadoo.fr 04 68 59 20 73 / 06 16 66 93 75 www.thunevin.com
Chateau La Casenove MONTÈS Etienne Trouillas chateau.la.casenove@wanadoo.fr 04 68 21 66 33 rhone.vignobles.free.fr/pagesgb/montes.htm
Domaine Cazes CAZES Emmanuel and LAVAIL Lionel Rivesaltes lionel.lavail@cazes.com 04 68 64 08 26 www.cazes-rivesaltes.com
Clot de l'Oum MONNÉ Eric & Lèia OBARA Bélesta emonne@web.de 06 60 57 69 62 www.clotdeloum.com
Mas dels Clots PIQUEMAL Michel Salses-Le-Chateau michel.piquemal@masdesclots.com 04 68 64 20 13 / 06.61.20.99.40 www.masdesclots.com
Domaine Coume del Mas GARD Philippe Banyuls sur Mer coumedelmas@tiscali.fr 04 68 88 37 03 / 06 86 81 71 32
Domaine Coume Majou CHARLIER Luc Corneilla de la Riviere charlier.luc@wanadoo.fr 04 68 51 84 83
Mas Crémat JEANNIN Catherine Espira de l'Agly mascremat@mascremat.com 04.68.38.92.06 www.mascremat.com
Domaine Depeyre DEPEYRE Serge & Brigitte BILE Cases-de-Pene brigitte.bile@orange.fr 04 68 28 32 19
Clos des Fées BIZEUL Hervé Vingrau info@closdesfees.com 04 68 29 40 00 www.closdesfees.com
Domaine Força Réal HENRIQUÈS Cyril et Jean-Paul Millas cyril@forcareal.com 04 68 85 06 07 www.forcareal.com
Domaine Gardiès GARDIÈS Jean Espira de l'Agly gardies.jean@wanadoo.fr 04.68.64.61.16
Domaine Gauby GAUBY Gérard and Lionel Calce domaine.gauby@wanadoo.fr,info@domainegauby.fr 04 68 64 35 19 www.domainegauby.fr
Chateau de Jau DAURÉ Simon and Estelle Cases-de-Pene daure@wanadoo.fr 04.68.38.90.10
Vignobles Bernard Magrez RAYNAL Jean-Marc / Bernard MAGREZ Montner raynalsud@free.fr 06 80 30 72 24 / 04 68 80 24 81 www.bernard-magrez.com
Domaine Marcevol PREDAL Guy Vinca marcevolpredal@wanadoo.fr 04 68 05 74 34
Domaine Matassa LUBBE Tom & HARROP Sam Calce matassa@wanadoo.fr 04 68 64 10 13
Clos de Paulilles DAURÉ Simon / PAGES Frédéric Port Vendres daure@wanadoo.fr 04 68 98 07 58
Domaine Pechpeyrou DE GUITAUT Bertrand Banyuls sur Mer bertrand.evelyne@wanadoo.fr 04 68 82 57 24 / 06 70 76 22 76
Domaine Pithon PITHON Olivier Calce pithon.olivier@wanadoo.fr 06.16.79.82.19 www.domaineolivierpithon.com
Préceptoire de Centernach LEGRAND Vincent Saint Arnac (Maury) legrandvin@wanadoo.fr 04 68 81 02 94 www.la-rectorie.com
Domaine Rancy Brigitte & Jean-HubertVERDAGUER Latour-de-France info@domaine-rancy.com 04 68 29 03 47 / 06 87 11 15 18 www.domaine-rancy.com
Domaine La Rectorie PARCÉ Marc, Pierre, Thierry Banyuls sur Mer larectorie@wanadoo.fr,vignesorientales@orange.fr 04.68.88.13.45 / 04 68 81 02 94 / 06 82 67 04 10 / 06 80 01 75 76 www.la-rectorie.com
Domaine Singla DE BESOMBES-SINGLA Laurent Rivesaltes/Camélas laurent.debesombes@free.fr 04 68 28 30 68 / 06 11 77 07 11; www.domainesingla.com
Domaine Le Soula Richards Walford UK & Gérard Gauby St Martin de Fenouillet Roy@r-w.co.uk See www.domainegauby.fr
Domaine Treloar HESFORD Jonathan & Rachel Trouillas hesfordj@hotmail.com,info@domainetreloar.com 04 68 95 02 29 / 06 50 88 21 70 www.domainetreloar.com
Domaine Trois Orris GRALER Joep Tarerach joep.graler@wanadoo.fr,troisorris@wanadoo.fr 04 68 05 29 19 / 06 75 02 51 00 www.troisorris.org
Chateau Valmy CARBONNELL Bernard and Martine Argelès-sur-Mer chateau.valmy@tiscali.fr,contact@chateau-valmy.com 04 68 81 25 70 www.chateau-valmy.com
Domaine des Vents PELEGRY Arnaud / C. CARRELAS Saint Paul de Fenouillet domainedesvents@wanadoo.fr 06 10 32 14 84 / 04 68 59 22 63
Domaine Vinci Emmanuelle VINCI / Olivier VARICHON Estagel Vinciemmanuelle@aol.com 04.68.52.04.99 06.18.49.11.21 www.domainevinci.com

MANY THANKS TO ALL OF YOU FOR YOUR TIME, KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!