Edouard
Laffitte was a co-op winemaker in Estézargues (a wee town between
Avignon and Nimes) before he bought six or seven disparate hectares
of vines at “the end of the world” as he calls it - the name of
the estate that is, rather than some mythical spot evoked by Wim
Wenders' movie or U2's title song from it - near Lansac, which is
found a few kilometres southwest of Maury down the meandering little
road heading towards Trilla or Caramany. Edouard has three
granite-laden plots here in Lansac in fact - where he shares the
former co-op cellar bought by Loïc
Roure of Domaine du Possible (profile to follow) -
two nestling on that much talked-about flaky schist characteristic of
the Rasiguères area (and said to work especially well for Syrah),
and nearly two more near Cassagnes a little further south peppered
with trickier to pronounce 'gneiss' (“gn...” rather than “nice”
I believe: it's a kind of striped metamorphic rock, man). These plots
lie at from 150 to 400 metres (500 to 1300 feet) altitude, which
helps lend a slightly cooler edge to those hot summer days and nights
and hence “limit the alcohol,” as Edouard states is his aim on
his website domaineleboutdumonde.sitew.com (where I took the photo from);
and the vineyards are organically farmed. Apparently the wines aren't
fined or filtered, as is fashionable perhaps in 'natural' circles,
but this non-technique doesn't appear to have done any harm to the
wines I've tried.
His
London area distributor is Les Caves de Pyrène, and the wines are
also available from e.g. Ellis Wharton Wines in Cornwall. A US
importer is Selection Massale in California. Where to find him in
situ: 13 Avenue des Platanes, 66720 Lansac. Mobile 06 77 50 94 22,
edouard.laffitte@laposte.net
2011
L'Echappée Belle (Syrah) – peppery and 'inky' with cherry and
liquorice notes, fruity palate with soft tannins, nice pure and spicy
style.
2011
Tam Tam Côtes du Roussillon (mostly Syrah from schist +
Carignan/Grenache) – richer and more intense with more liquorice
than pepper flavours, firmer mouth-feel yet still has attractive
tannins and tasty youthful fruit. UK £15
2011
Hop' La (Carignan, Grenache, Syrah) – 'tarter' and tighter
profile initially with lively palate and nice fruit showing quite
dark vs savoury vs spicy finish. US $18
2011
L'Ecume des Jours (Lladoner Pelut, Carignan) – again it's
lively and spicy with sweet vs tart fruit mix, less expressive on the
finish mingling lush vs bitter twist. Not so obvious. US $19
2011
Avec le Temps (Carignan) – spicy blueberry fruit, fresh bite
and length vs sweeter liquorice side, spicy quite intense finish.
2009
La Luce Côtes du Roussillon (mostly Grenache) – more developed
with 'volatile' tones, quite rich and concentrated with peppery
punchy mouth-feel, attarctive 'sweet/savoury' finish and length.
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